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Propane Set-Up Requirements For Hi-Fire Downdraft Kiln


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I'm a white stoneware/porcelain production potter in New Mexico and have been working at my craft for 40 years first in California and now in Taos since 2004. Or I should say as a qualifier until a year ago August when circumstances necessitated that I move my studio and kiln to different sites. Ah, the perils of not owning your own property. My situation that prompts this inquiry is this: My kiln is now rebuilt (20 cubic ft.) in a place,rural, that requires me to switch from natural has to propane. Unfortunately this also requires me to go thrust a state gas inspector... I.e a code book stickler enforcer. I've built 7 kilns prior to this one: wood fired, gas (natural & propane). I've used hard brick, soft brick and fibre. I'm a pro at building down drafts and the sheds/ buildings that house them. I've also been very adept at sidestepping code requirements ... Up till now. The issue(s) that I'm encountering with this one however means that I've been caught in the web of governmental ensnarlments that will either entail my tearing down the kiln (1200 soft bricks/400 hard--5'sq) and re-erecting it approximately 23 inches to the left of where it sits now. Joe says my 10 in. Steel flue is too close to a support beam at 11 inches clearance to meet code. No variances allowed. Without getting too bogged down in issues of futile defense I'm wondering if any potters or pyromaniac scientist types know if it is possible to use a 100 gallon tank (propane) without the gas or it's valve freezing up ? The code stipulates harsher restrictions when using tanks larger than this but doesn't mandate tanks 125 or 100 gallons or less. In other words there's a possibly I wouldn't have to move my kiln if I can utilize a smaller tank. Anybody out there face such a quandary and figured a means to avoid Joe let me know? Thanks, John. P.s. Sorry about the couple typos...I.e. Gas not has & thru not thust as misspelled above. P.s.s. Joe's a nice guy who's just doing his job I really don't want to thrust/chuck my spear at him I just want to avoid his jurisprudence by any sly means at my disposal.

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is it possible that this is joe's first kiln installation inspection?  is he just afraid of messing up and losing his job over it?  can you contact any of the previous inspectors from the earlier installations to talk to him?  are you using an attitude with him or seeking help from him so you can do this?  

 

a heat shield, a piece of sheet metal placed between the flue and the beam set up so it does not contact either thing might work to divert the heat from the beam.  i did this when installing a woodstove in my previous house.  two 4x8 sheets of steel hung 8 inches behind the stove. the wall behind it never even got warm. 

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Will they allow you to build an insulating chimney around the steel flue pipe, with IFB? Or can you wrap the steel flue with fiber blanket, or insulate the beam with mineral wool board? Get the technical analysis for whatever you decide to use, to that you have scientific evidence that the beam will not get hot. You have to show these guys numbers.

 

Otherwise, do like others have suggested and link some smaller tanks. The question there is whether or not they'll still consider you to be using 100# tanks, or if they add them up and say you're technically using a 300# tank in 3 pieces.

 

This is a good example of why you should follow codes from the beginning.

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Guest JBaymore

There are zero clearance high temperature code-compliant flue units available. Costly..... but less than not having a kiln. Can be installed right IN flamable materials.

 

best,

 

......................john

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