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About Wyndham

  • Birthday 09/17/1946

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  • Location
    Seagrove NC
  • Interests
    All aspects of clay

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  1. Thanks for the info. I can see things going very bad very quickly.
  2. A very interesting read. I have been done this rabbit hole for many years now and find there is more to go than where I've been. That being said, an early comment on the types of zinc white yellow and metallic. I have been gifted some metallic zinc powder which was used in making battleship gray for the Navy. How would one go about creating a glaze test using this material, if at all. I use a 50% 3110 26% calcined zno 23% sil and a pinch of epk. peak temp 2300f w/5min hold Looking forward to trying something new just rewired my kiln Thanks Wyndham
  3. I use a electric grill with temp control. The wax is candle wax from hobby lobby. Adjust the temp until the the wax goes liquid, but not smoking. If you need to wax large volumes of pots, this method, with care taken, has worked for me for over 18 yrs. The wax only needs to be about 1/8 in. We use a knife to scrape off any excess wax on the bottom. Using wax at this temp, it's not around open flame and is not hot enough to combust on it's own. Care must be taken with any part of a studio . Wyndham
  4. no I'm afraid not but the Texas tile press site videos and tutorial will give you about everything you need. I used a moist, freshly slabbed clay as the master. built a frame 10 in on a side with 1x4 pine. These 2 things replace the metal frame and silicone rubber master he used. Hope this helps. If anything else just let me know. Wyndham
  5. Mine broke down early, but I was not as kind to it as I should have been. I used a rubber mallet to pound the clay into submission Wyndham
  6. This is the Texas tile press but I did mine for about $20 with a wood frame, air tubing and a compressor I had from HF. Mine work fine for about 200 pressing before I made another mold. Wyndham
  7. I have used a hand press for a home made tile air release system. The hydrocal should be fine but if you wanted a little softer die then add about 25 % plaster to the hydrocal. Hobbylobby should have some silicone rubber for the masters. If you need another source, give Rampress a call and find out what they recommend. Wyndham
  8. You might try oven drying 20 mule team. I got my anhydrous from a local supplier. Wyndham
  9. I use borax in one glaze that can have the nasty habit of crawling. It's not due to clay but the borax. It will also act like soda ash on evaporation, making a crust up the side of a container holding the glaze but.... It can make some great effects. I try to use that glaze in the bottom of a pot and layer another glaze on top and not use it on the verticals. Don't use 20 muleteam borax, it seems to have other stuff that makes glazes spit. Other than that, it can be great.................or not Wyndham
  10. You might be able to make a tripod base with some 4x4 post and cement in the base. The shop class should be able to cut and weld either round 3-4 in pipe. Go to a scrap yard that buys steel and beg some sq 4ii stock about 24 in long or round stock that size. If they won't donate they sell it by the pound. You'll also need some flat stock about 2 in wide and 1/2 in thick, 2 pieces about 4 ft long, this is the handle and the ram parts. The base is the most expensive but maybe the shop teacher can help This should be no more than $20 for the steel. I can make up some plans but you may already have that. Wyndham
  11. Here's where I see an issue, look at the prices. A pot shipped from Europe, sold on etsy for $15 and the potter makes a living & the seller made a profit, how does this fit? Yea, we're discussing technique and I'm off topic but anybody else see the 800 lb gorilla? Wyndham
  12. I'm a little late for the discussion but thought I'd jump in for a moment I think I see something slightly overlooked in this teaching clay thread. It is something that became very apparant when I took my first classes in clay, some 27 years ago. It takes time for people who have never worked with clay to get the muscle memory to work with clay. Of the few people that I have assisted in learning to turn, it was obovious they had not spent enough time with the wheel or slab or coil to feel comfortable with the clay. It takes time and a few hours a week is not enough to develop these skills in a quick mannor. I remember how sore my muscles were at first, how tired my hands and wrist were. I know that even now after turning some larger pieces I have to work with smaller light pieces because my hands and arms are starting to get tired. I also know that my hands get tired before my brain knows I'm tired and I messup some pieces before I tell myself to stop and take a break or quit for the day. Youtube is one of the great teaching aids we can have. Youtube allows students to see how other potters work, how they center and how they,position themselves, etc. This allows the students to absorb visually what is hard to transmitt verbally. As much fun and pleasure clay can bring, the fact is, it's hard work. I think some beginning students and not aware of the physical demands of learning pottery and lose motivation to dig deeper. Just my 2 cents and change Wyndham
  13. I had to reread the post to catch the "E", no telling how many typo's I trtail along behind. Anywho, some years back I made a slip for just this reason using barnard clay subed for other clay in a cone 6 clay recipe that was very smooth and brushed on the rim about the time for handles. It added some contrast at the rim that the clay lacked. Wyndham
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