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About Wyndham

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/17/1946

Profile Information

  • Location
    Seagrove NC
  • Interests
    All aspects of clay

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  1. looks like the bearing in my brent c wheel(20 + years old) is toast . has anyone had an electric motor repair place replace the bearings. A new motor is around $400, just getting info before committing to a new motor. Thanks
  2. thanks, I was hoping the Ruri was a glaze name. Going to try with a temoku base plus cobalt and dolomite and see what happens
  3. I saw a beautiful blue, white speckled glaze on one of the FB groups The Japanese potter said the glaze is called "Ruri" with a small amt of "Sanga" added. It looks like a c10 reduction Temoku with 8% extra dolomite( which gives yellow specks) but no iron. Maybe replaced by cobalt. I Googled "Ruri" and found several examples but no ref to a recipe. Hope someone here has heard of this glaze. Thanks Wyndham
  4. Thanks Neil, I'll run both and see what happens. Wyndham
  5. Great, 1290 16.36% The frit number is 1290 it has only 4 components NaO .50 Cao .50 B2O3 1.00 and silica 2.00 Custer feldspar 18.39 Dolomite 17.55 whiting 2.50 EPK 16.85 Silica 23.95 Titanium Dioxide 3.42 Cobalt oxide .74 Iron Ox .02 NiO .28 It's a variation of float blue I'd like to test. The frit has thrown me off as could not find a substitute Thanks for any help Wyndham
  6. I have a frit that I can not find a substitute for. I have also never understood unity formulas as well. I'm hoping someone cal help translate this back to raw materials The frit number is 1290 it has only 4 components NaO .50 Cao .50 B2O3 1.00 and silica 2.oo Am I guessing correctly that 1 part borax i part whiting and 2 parts silica would be some thing close to the frit or is there a better set of ingredients to use Thanks
  7. I'll try wait til firmer before cut off. Interesting observation about the clay content. I know Starworks (Starwhite c10) has soda spar and it tends to craze. I have had good results with Miller 55 a 6-10 clay at c10 for crystalline but don't like the way it throws. Will also try a thcker cut off wire. Wyndham
  8. I've ventured back into porcelain for some clay self abuse. I'm trying highwaters p10 cone 10 and running into an old problem. I use masonite bats for my c10 stoneware with no problem running cut wire after turning. After making sure there's no water around base and making a clean trim line before cut off, P10 is re attaching and when it releases taking chunks of clay at the foot. These are old 8x8 in drop in homemade bats for small pieces and mugs. The porcelain is for crystalline serving plates(cracker,cookies and such) If I continue with porcelain, should I pour some plaster or ceramical bats to give even drying and release times or make new Masonite 8x8's and add a water seal. The drying from the outside of the foot is where the problem is. A drying/damp box is not a practical at this time Thanks for any thoughts Wyndham
  9. Yea, that's what I was thinking. There is a micaious clay from NM Clay ,an earthenware that might work but it's not a firm order so I'll put it in the "Some day to try" stack thanks Wyndham
  10. I recently had a fellow who wants a Tanjene (sp) a middle eastern cooking vessel that can go on a gas burner with a heat diffuser metal plate that allows a clay cooking vessel to be used on a gas stove burner. On further info, the Tanjene(SP) is earthenware and the food being cooked is a wet dish as opposed to a dry cooking dish or frying. How well or poorly would stoneware cooking vessels work with a heat diffuser, if at all
  11. Thanks for the info. I can see things going very bad very quickly.
  12. A very interesting read. I have been done this rabbit hole for many years now and find there is more to go than where I've been. That being said, an early comment on the types of zinc white yellow and metallic. I have been gifted some metallic zinc powder which was used in making battleship gray for the Navy. How would one go about creating a glaze test using this material, if at all. I use a 50% 3110 26% calcined zno 23% sil and a pinch of epk. peak temp 2300f w/5min hold Looking forward to trying something new just rewired my kiln Thanks Wyndham
  13. This is just a FYI. Star Ceramic supply in Star NC has a native high fire red clay called "East Fork", a clay mostly composed of a Catawba clay from upper NC clay used for generations for folk potters of the area. It burns dark brown in reduction, sandy and throws very well. It might be something worth looking into.
  14. I looked at Ashley's best as well as several others in John's mid range book there are seveal that look like they have enough mag carb will test several. .5% cobalt carb should do it. at lest that's about where I'll start Thanks for the tip on Tin vs zircopax, maybe some of both. Wyndham
  15. Thanks, I have that glaze ,will try that next fining. What do you think about some zirocpax to increase opacity make it creamier
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