CLN studios Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I beleive ive seen or heard somewhere about sanding porcelain? Does anyone know what kind/grit you would need for a silky or flesh like feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 http://www.toolocity.com/diamond-hand-polishing-pads.aspx 100-200. Works fine. 400 almost too fine I rarely use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Green, bisque or high fired? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLN studios Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 High fired Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cline Campbell Pottery Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 If I have to sand porcelain, I use waterproof carborundum paper (also called wet-dry sandpaper). I've found it at a small hardware store in 150 grit. If you use it wet, it makes a paste and not a dangerous dust, and you can rinse the paste off in a small bucket as often as you need to. I also have a small cheap rotary tool (similar to a Dremel) with very small diamond grinders. Mine comes from Harbor Freight. The results of the grinder on finished porcelain are coarse enough to require a bit of hand sanding, but it depends on where you need to smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 220 grit wet-dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angela_w Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 I know you said high fired, but in my experience I've found it's a lot easier to sand at the bisque stage if possible. The 220 wet-dry sandpaper works well but doesn't hold up long on the high fired porcelain—you get more mileage out of it at the bisque stage. I make a lot of unglazed porcelain beads and small sculptural forms, and my process is to use fine steel wool on bone dry greenware (if needed, wearing a mask), then after bisque firing I wet-sand any pieces that aren't as smooth as I'd like using either the diamond pads linked above, or sandpaper. After the final firing, if anything feels rough I might sand it again. A three step-sanding process is obviously a bit tedious, but for very special pieces it's worth it for the amazing buttery finish. Also if you happen to be making small rounded forms, you could use a large rock tumbler with water and some aluminum oxide powder which is much, much easier than manually sanding them. This could be done at either the bisque or high fired stage depending on how much material you want to take away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 diamond pads. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Sart with wet sponging when it in the green state-sand with diamond pad when fired. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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