loveceramics85 Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 hi every one! i have a question to ask i would like to use the oxide as a wash on one of my bisque pots! i am after a green and a brown wash with black spots if it helps i am only firing to 1100c and i am using paper clay i was just wondering what is the best way to use oxides? do i have to add a frit? i know the best way is to test! but i am a student at T.A.F.E and we dont get that many firing as we did last year so any help would be great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 are you firing in electric or gas or oil kiln? Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 Here's a couple of web pages with info about decorating with oxides which I've kept bookmarked for my own reference. http://www.shambhalapottery.com/oxidewashes.html http://www.bigceramicstore.com/info/ceramics/tips/tip12_decoriting_oxides.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macdoodle Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 this is a fast shot of a tester i used various oxides mixed with water brushed on - then green celdon over all - to cone10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslinger Ceramics Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Hi without knowing all the details, would suggest brushing or sponging on copper oxide in water for green + iron oxide in water for brown under an 1100C borax based earthenware glaze (an alkaline based glaze will make the copper turquoise blue and manganese eggplant purple!...nice, but not what you're looking for), fire in oxidation are the 'black spots' meant to be big or little? big- dot them on with a brush, medium- a cotton bud, little- use an old toothbrush to spatter manganese dioxide or black underglaze at the ware (use surgical gloves to keep it off your skin) can use 1 tsp pre-prepared CMC in the mix to keep the oxides in suspension for longer....not essential at all but I found it makes for smoother brush strokes (CMC is an organic binder that thickens the water/oxide mix a little but it must be made up before hand, I make it up as 5-10gm granules into 500mls hot water, stir until dissolved and let cool before use, I keep some premade in the studio at all times....start small... 5g CMC granules expand a LONG way...try for a mix with the viscousity of vegetable oil) love paperclay for handbuilding! Irene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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