Posted 03 May 2012 - 01:59 PM
I have attempted several times to get a good grasp of using one, but it sure is not my favorite tool.
What is the proper dryness stage to use it, and how do you go about smoothing the surface out after you use
it, if you decide you want it smooth?
I am sure....I am doing something not quite right.
I thank all who offer help and suggestions.
Posted 03 May 2012 - 02:18 PM
Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:47 PM
Thanks for the help. From reading your responses, I think I am being a little too aggressive, and not lighting up at the end. I, too, work it at the leather hard stage, but thought it might
need to be a bit dryer to avoid the deep grooves, but I now think not. I will go back and lightly fine tune, and then use a rib to smooth and maybe a slip to fill.
Posted 03 May 2012 - 03:50 PM
Kiln Repair Tech
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:01 AM
didn't attach on first attempt. sorry. This is how I refine the edges of large tarpaper foams.
Earlier you mentioned the use of hack saw blades. I have always used hack saw blades to sharpen up edges, and make certain joins have continuity. I used to also have access to used band saw blades. Different blades would have close or far distanced teeth that would allow fast removal of material and then use finer blades to clean up, then the flat edge to finish. These days I rely on packages of 50 hacksaw blades to get the work done. Some I will heat up to bend into hoop tools and other trimmers.
Simply retired teacher, not dead, living the dream. on and on and. . . . on. . . . http://picworkspottery.blogspot.com/
Posted 04 May 2012 - 10:53 AM
Contemporary Fine Colored Porcelain
TRY ... FAIL ... LEARN ... REPEAT
Posted 04 May 2012 - 03:00 PM
I use the hacksaw on edges too. I worked for a sculptor while I was in Grad school as the final form finisher for plaster models before they went to the foundry.
I used the surform and hacksaw blades back then as well.
Posted 04 May 2012 - 08:24 PM
"Promoting the joy of handmade pottery"
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