andros Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 Thank you Pres!! Andrea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 Pres, I can't say I've had my own wares collapse inward, and crack, because I always vent them, but I've seen several student projects that have done so. Also Pres, after seeing your horned jar again, I got a strong Minoan vibe from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laughlin Posted December 20, 2017 Report Share Posted December 20, 2017 You might like this method too, nancy lee, since you like hand building. It's done with soft slabs so you can easily form a soft square or a cylinder - it's easy once you get the hang of it. Here's Liz Zlot's directions - if you image-google her work you can see different ways that she uses the same principle. https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/pottery-making-techniques/handbuilding-techniques/how-to-slab-build-a-simple-darted-cup/ . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Ben, I was trying for a tribal, eastern sort of thing. Actually created an alphabet and language for the hieroglyphics on the sides. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andros Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 9 hours ago, laughlin said: You might like this method too, nancy lee, since you like hand building. It's done with soft slabs so you can easily form a soft square or a cylinder - it's easy once you get the hang of it. Here's Liz Zlot's directions - if you image-google her work you can see different ways that she uses the same principle. https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/pottery-making-techniques/handbuilding-techniques/how-to-slab-build-a-simple-darted-cup/ . Thank you laughlin, very interesting! With handbuilding I find very hard to obtain objects not... "lopsided," imperfect, asymmetric, and it's so annoing! But here I discover many methods in wich the imperfections are not "hidden", are instead well shown , and are a "merit"! I find this very interesting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 13 hours ago, Pres said: Ben, I was trying for a tribal, eastern sort of thing. Actually created an alphabet and language for the hieroglyphics on the sides. best, Pres Pres, that's taking it to near Tolkein levels right there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andros Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 On 20/12/2017 at 5:21 AM, Pres said: Andros, You may find this of interest, and possibly helpful. . . best, Pres I've had just now the occasion to pay more attention on what you have queted... I find it actually interesting... does the magic water work also for repairs? That is with bone dry pieces? If not what is the limit level of dryness" I've never used nothing like that, not even mixes with vinegar of spooze , just "plain" slip... and actually I often have some crack! Magic water could deserve to be tested...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Andros, as I taught High School for years, I found when I changed from slip to Magic Water that I had fewer cracks and gaps in hand built pieces. The students had a tendency to get cleaner looking joins and corners with the Magic water also, thus improving their Craftsmanship. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhPotter Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Andros, How to Repair cracks in bone dry ware Spooze; 1/3 your clay body 1/3 vinegar 1/3 Caro syrup or other cheap sugar syrup. The ware MUST be bone dry for this to work. I used it on leather hard and it did not work. With the same piece I waited till bone dry and it worked. Mix it up. Put it on to repair. Let dry and sand. dab or spritz vinegar on, before using that recipe. I will say, that recipe works wonders. I've used it to reattach small pieces, that I just loaded into the kiln. I do mix a little tissue/ toilet paper with the vinegar, before adding the other ingredients though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andros Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Thank you both Pres and dhpotter! I've learnt something new also today... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 On 12/21/2017 at 9:28 AM, Pres said: Andros, as I taught High School for years, I found when I changed from slip to Magic Water that I had fewer cracks and gaps in hand built pieces. The students had a tendency to get cleaner looking joins and corners with the Magic water also, thus improving their Craftsmanship. best, Pres I have found this as well, though most of the students still use standard slip. I'll have them use Magic Water on spots, that I feel will be more likely to crack however. In regards to repairing bone dry wares, I've tried many things over the years. The "spooze" recipe does work well, but I find the join to be relatively weak. Lately I've been experimenting with dampening the two pieces with Magic Water, then using a super saturated slip to join them. With a slight bit of twisting pressure, the saturated slip sets and holds fast, which is great. Then I usually brush on a bit of Magic Water. It creates a really strong join, once fired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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