PottaFella Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 As a cheat to waterproof a particular glazed stoneware jug I'm considering adding a low-fire clear earthenware glaze only to its interior. Hopefully, this earthenware glaze, which seems to be quite plastic, will form a nice even layer and taking it up to just 1100c will seal the inside. By doing this I hope to avoid the risk of spoiling the existing external glaze, which I've found in the past does not like re-firing (at least not back up to stoneware temperature where went mottled and lumpy). I don't want to spoil the vessel as a visual object. Does this sound a sensible thing to try or should I just give up on it and accept that although pretty, it will never be fully functional? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sputty Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 are these vases? There is a waterproofing liquid silicon product if it isn't for food. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PottaFella Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 are these vases? There is a waterproofing liquid silicon product if it isn't for food. Marcia I'm afraid it is a jug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 make a new one and put that on the shelf in your studio that is for 'would have been great if......'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 I made a pot a while back in ^6 stoneware (ES5), it had a landscape picture on the outside that I'd made with both painted and sprayed underglaze. I was in a hurry to get it finished before an event but didn't have anything that needed glaze firing. It went into the next bisque fire with a clear earthen-ware glaze (good at 1050°C) on the inside and the outside left unglazed. It's on my table now cos the wife likes the picture, it still pings every now and again, but the first three weeks were like sitting next to an orchestra as the glaze crazed. The glaze has to fit the clay - another lesson in not rushing, how many do I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 The glaze has to fit the clay - another lesson in not rushing, how many do I need? When does time end? In my experience working with clay, and Art in general, the thought of "Yeah, I should have known better..." comes up often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1515art Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 A lot will depend on the clay body and glaze fit as previously stated, I have had success repairing bottom leaks with stoneware laguna soldate 60 fired to cone ten and then lined with Amaco food safe cone 05 to seal leaks. Sometimes I make the bottoms too thin and a little leak develops and this works to seal a pinhole or small crack in vitrified clay if the stoneware was fired to maturity. You may experience subtle changes in the original glaze as a result of the second fire, this is also an opportunity to add low fire glaze to the outside and a lot of art glazes and brushing glaze work well in this application and have additives that make application easier. Microwaving the pot for 1 minute will make the glaze stick better and helps remove oils from your hands so the glaze won't want to crawl when you brush it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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