potterymadmatthew Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I am interested in dripping glaze. How do you do this? as I was interested in having a go. Thanks Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Are you planning to do a base coat, then drip a different color over top of that? I use a nasal aspirator (Baby Snot Sucker) to drip/ splatter glaze. I initially drip a bit, and add more, if I want the drip to go further. Keep in mind, the drips will run more, when fired, as it becomes liquid. I don't allow students to drip much beyond half way down, the outside of a project, as a general rule. The inside, they can drip as far as they want, as it can run off the project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewV Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 The rubber bulb nasal aspirators are wonderful tools for making dribbles, drops, and also make better lines than paintbrushes. Very easy to control and they will hold enough liquid to make continuous lines around large pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 So that is the tool I am missing: "snot sucker." Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Dripping glazes . . . not sure what you mean. Some oilspots develop a luscious drip off the side to near the kiln shelf -- is that what you are looking for? Or a glaze that can be applied and runs and blends with other glazes on the side of a vessel? Could you post a picture of what you would like to attempt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potterymadmatthew Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Are you planning to do a base coat, then drip a different color over top of that? I use a nasal aspirator (Baby Snot Sucker) to drip/ splatter glaze. I initially drip a bit, and add more, if I want the drip to go further. Keep in mind, the drips will run more, when fired, as it becomes liquid. I don't allow students to drip much beyond half way down, the outside of a project, as a general rule. The inside, they can drip as far as they want, as it can run off the project. Yes that is what I am planning to do. I do it as a hobby at home and get someone else to fire it for me. I buy pottery from studios with the item price and firing fee is all so included. So its very good for me that they trust me. I am using glazes and not just kids paints. Thanks for your help I will buy one of those now. Thanks Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potterymadmatthew Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Dripping glazes . . . not sure what you mean. Some oilspots develop a luscious drip off the side to near the kiln shelf -- is that what you are looking for? Or a glaze that can be applied and runs and blends with other glazes on the side of a vessel? Could you post a picture of what you would like to attempt? This is what I am trying to achieve. Thanks Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Yep, a good ol' snot sucker will be able to accomplish that. Though, a very liquid glaze, like many dipping glazes, would do that on its own. Just dunk the ware top first, pull it out of the glaze, and invert so it is right side up. The glaze would dribble down the sides. The only downside is, it will dribble down, wherever it feels like. If you are simply brushing on glazes, then the nasal aspirator is probably the way to go. Just a final note on those. Squeeze them from the back, with your thumb, not from the sides. I keep emphasizing this with students, as that's how they are designed to be used. I've had some split on the back, because they were continually squeezed from the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerdry Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Benzine, is the reason to squeeze from the back simply to avoid them splitting, or is it a better technique? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewV Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 The ones I have have a raised bit around the circumference of the bulb making it easier to squeeze from the side. I cannot see the advantage of pushing from the back unless it is more comfortable in your hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potterymadmatthew Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Are you planning to do a base coat, then drip a different color over top of that? I use a nasal aspirator (Baby Snot Sucker) to drip/ splatter glaze. I initially drip a bit, and add more, if I want the drip to go further. Keep in mind, the drips will run more, when fired, as it becomes liquid. I don't allow students to drip much beyond half way down, the outside of a project, as a general rule. The inside, they can drip as far as they want, as it can run off the project. Hello good morning could you tell me what a marbling glaze is?As I am interested in this! Thanks Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 Benzine, is the reason to squeeze from the back simply to avoid them splitting, or is it a better technique? The ones I have have a raised bit around the circumference of the bulb making it easier to squeeze from the side. I cannot see the advantage of pushing from the back unless it is more comfortable in your hands. It definitely works by squeezing from the sides, but as I mentioned, I've had some split along the back, when repeatedly used this way. Also, if you squeeze from the back, it forces the air, and any other contents forward, towards the nozzle. If you squeeze from the sides, some of the air and contents can go towards the back. flowerdry, I don't know if this is a better technique, but it makes the aspirators last longer, in my experience. Are you planning to do a base coat, then drip a different color over top of that? I use a nasal aspirator (Baby Snot Sucker) to drip/ splatter glaze. I initially drip a bit, and add more, if I want the drip to go further. Keep in mind, the drips will run more, when fired, as it becomes liquid. I don't allow students to drip much beyond half way down, the outside of a project, as a general rule. The inside, they can drip as far as they want, as it can run off the project. Hello good morning could you tell me what a marbling glaze is?As I am interested in this! Thanks Matthew I don't have a lot of experience marbling. I've assisted students, in marbling underglazes, which involved putting lines of different colors side by side, then slightly tilting the surface, to cause them to swirl around each other. You can also take a pointed tool, and drag through the lines, to create the effect too. I would imagine marbling with glazes would be the same idea. Though underglazes or slips would generally work better, as they will keep the same precise edge, when fired, where glazes will bleed into each other slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 see Robin Hopper's books. he covers several ways to marble clay and slip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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