jrgpots Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I gutted an old kiln today. I was able to salvage: 1. about 60 sq ft of 1" thick kaowool. it was a little wet and i hope I can dry it out. 2. a Honeywell 1" gas shut off valve actuator. 3. a Dongan ignition transformer. 4. Type K thermocouple. 5. Sigma type DD7 thermocouple controller (0-2500 degree F) 5. about 100 IFB. I thinks this gives me an ignition system and a safety shut off valve for power failure and max temp shut off. It was all free too. I'm getting close to having everything to start my kiln build. I still need to get an oxygen probe. BUT what is the best way to dry out IFB and kaowool? Jed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 The fiber will air dry same as the bricks-just keep them dry. If I recall you live in dry climate so by spring they should be fine. If you need them sooner heat will dry them faster.Just do not let the IFB freeze if they are very wet as that will crack them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxden Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Regarding an oxy probe, here is a n interesting DIY one. Never tried it but saved the article for future reference. http://members.optusnet.com.au/rogergraham/the_kiln_exhaust_sniffer.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrgpots Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Regarding an oxy probe, here is a n interesting DIY one. Never tried it but saved the article for future reference. http://members.optusnet.com.au/rogergraham/the_kiln_exhaust_sniffer.pdf I have made this and use it on my smaller kiln. The oxygen sensor was $18.00 new and the meter was $5 at Harbor Freight. Jed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Longer Member Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Regarding an oxy probe, here is a n interesting DIY one. Never tried it but saved the article for future reference. http://members.optusnet.com.au/rogergraham/the_kiln_exhaust_sniffer.pdf I have made this and use it on my smaller kiln. The oxygen sensor was $18.00 new and the meter was $5 at Harbor Freight. Jed I've been waiting to build something like that. How well does it work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrgpots Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 It works well. It reads 0.5 mV DC in oxidation. In deep reduction it reads 2.9 mV DC in deep reduction. You have to graph the mV vs amount reduction to find what mV value corresponds to the degree of reduction desired. If you had an oxygen probe, you can run them side by side to see how the mV reading correspond to O2%. Jed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Jed correct me if this is not the case but the sensor is reading the flue gases when they are colder as the probe does not hold up in cone 10 kiln environment . Is this correct? I think Doc said that with the one he made for an updraft trash can kiln? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrgpots Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Mark, I created a small chimney system that went right through the kiln wall. I included a picture below. The longer tube acts as a small chimney that draws chamber air. The smaller tube is made from Mullite. The smaller tube extends into the firing chamber. The sensor sniffs the air as the air makes the bend in the chimney. The black pipe T turned a very dull red color during firing. I bought a 4" Mullite tube for $10.00. I did not put the sensor in the main kiln chimney flue. I have fired this kiln only to cone 6. So, it has not been tested to cone 10. The Mullite tube should withstand cone 10 temps. I don't know if the sensor will yet. Jed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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