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Biglou13

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Everything posted by Biglou13

  1. made glazes toaday

    1. glazenerd

      glazenerd

      On my agenda for tomorrow. 

    2. Joseph F

      Joseph F

      on my agenda for every single day of the future. = )

  2. I've seen where wads are placed one day (relatively fresh) then fired the the next day and in a few cases within a few hours.. most of the wood firings had a slow ramp but great question!! Physical water starts leaving at 212F so if your being careful. Hold around there or slightly higher, chemical at 1000f ish im curious because the wadding reipies ive used are a bit loose with organic material, sawdust, rice hulls, coarse sand, and nowhere near compressed , and rarely if ever more than 3/8 inch thick ... I'm thinking the "looseness" of the wads allows water to escape in a non explosive manner. i look forward to the leaned minds comments
  3. Exhausted ... wood firing today!!

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Biglou13

      Biglou13

      not a satisfying firing.   learned much. overall poor results.

       

    3. Joseph F

      Joseph F

      Those are the best firings sometimes. 

    4. Biglou13

      Biglou13

      i agree joseph F   there were a few treats...  i post pics soon

       

       

  4. i've been using a walker to reclaim and make clay my preferred method is to slurry mix.... dry slurry .... pug i was thinking about using it as a mixer then pug. i was thinking about making a approx 500 pound batch. how would you blend large quantity of dry ingredients, so i could just scoop it into walker? how many pounds dry components would walker hopper hold, if making hopper sized batches of clay? what plastic bags do you use for storing?
  5. Rubber/Silicone Ribs

    i'm a wood and red i'm getting short ribs tomorrow....
  6. mixing dry clay components

    ty brian cool rig.... is it motorized or do you turn by hand? i did think of drum and roll it around in back yard.... trying to keep it simple i think ill just keep slurry/blunge in a couple of trash cans then dry and pug i like the quality of clay that way i've started reducing bentonite
  7. Red Clay

    joseph..... you should play with some lizella its practically a local clay for you !!!! a bet less iron than red art but ive got some amazing results with it
  8. mixing dry clay components

    Bryan any pics of your dry mix rig
  9. mixing dry clay components

    nerd thanks for reply... i use the largest paint stirrer from home depot/lowes attached to drill, in large garbage can/s, i'm not confident that this mixes ingredients well especially where stirrer doesn't reach. when i slurry mix my clay,( thick but pourable), i mix all ingredients in large trash can (44 gal brute) then use large paint stirrer attached to drill to mix dry ingredients minus bentonite, i now pre blunge the bentonite. then mix that into larger quantity of water the day of, then add dry ingredients to water/bentonite while mixing, then dry to pugable stage then pug. i've never pre mixed nep sy in my clay nor in my glazes either. Now i'm curious if i can get by without your advice.... and if it will improve my clay? I'm curious about your technique? what does migration of salts look like? do you have link for your paddle?
  10. after many different signatures, I've settled on scratching my initials LEC, well a simplified version. i do like your ink brush sig. started with strict straight lines, it is now evolving into looser more fluid lines, (when i remember to sign), some time i use initials as large decorative elements ala koie ryoji, customers have asked me what the grass meant on pots, turns out some one found me via web search on face book so i suppose its getting web searchable. i use a golf pencil, pen, but my favorite is a porcupine quill that i was gifted. (here is a pic of kurinuki (hollowing out) yunomi/ sake cup, self made clay, wood fired)
  11. Wood firing conversations?

    I'd love to see pictures of your noborigama! Joseph F ......I've be lurking a bit .... now trying to get back to more clay! here is a wood fire kiln question... Is it possible to have to large or too tall a chimney, making kiln / flame movement too fast or too much draft? or too large exit flue/sutema (sp)? i've only fired a few different styles of wood fire kiln, the active damper (kiln shelf) was only open from less than inch to 2 at best and was drafting fine.
  12. Wood firing conversations?

    I love wood fire!!!!
  13. i'm about to refire wood fired, in wood fire......
  14. image

    pictures don't show it but in some pieces there is an iridescent/metallic quality in areas, i had others use it and didn't get same effect. i pulled from kiln onto news paper, placed more newspaper, closed lid on trash/redux can...... repeat
  15. image

    From the album Raku

    My first raku
  16. ok get you minds out of the gutter here is the deal it was from original post by jbcox that has been since censored. 3 # of clay pull a cylinder in 3 pulls cylinder must be 12 inches tall must be made exclusively on wheel clay cannot be dried eg blow torch or heat gun picture of cylinder with ruler get you in club you will be an official fire breather. there will be a kid club level if you can do it in more than 3 pulls. ive heard of this before its something of an urban myth lets see who can do it.
  17. its not the vee gum only its the vee gum plus DR-10 (drag reducer 10) the helmer body has a work ability/feel to it
  18. I had the opportunity to try some vacuum clay compared to same body blunged aged and filter pressed..... The later like john b stated is much nicer
  19. Check out the helmer clay body..... It uses a very lo wpercentage of vee gum...... And a " high tech" plasticizer. Dr-10 or drag reducer 10. It's quite plastic! I really like the feel and quality of this clay...... It's quite unique compared to the other porcelains I've experienced. I have experimted with these plasticizers .... My last test had les than extremely low percentage of platiccizer. Under 1/2 percent. Yet very plastic.. Would prefer to pm for further info
  20. Wood Fired Earthenware

    yeah i miss jim !!!
  21. couple things maybe your throwing with clay too wet as in added water your clay body is too dry. making it difficult to pull your not coaxing the the clay with enough authority i will occasionally use tools to pull try not using sponge try different parts of hand.fingers
  22. i'll have access to 10, gas reduction firing, Soon.... the clays ive been making are not tested in gas. so im looking for a white clay other than helio$, that plays well with celadons. can you also suggest some other clays thay play well with shino's, I like the look of iron bearing clays under a "whitish"/ (no iron) shino. i have access to any laguna clay (all of them), highwater and axner...... the laguna #900 /wc628 is already on my list im prolly going to try a box of laguna b-mix woodfire... and save some pieces for wood other than that I really love, historical asian glazes.......
  23. what about larger tiles 9# ish ?
  24. ok ive used porcelain slip (high fire) on non porcelain bodies @ cone 6 no issues in fit..... (but the clay gods have been lenient with me) thing is i think since you are adding it to "wetish".... you get forgiveness factor.... the kohiki finish is a bit "dry" so i think you will get away with same recipe. i think you'll get a closer cone 5 recipe subbing nephsy for the custer i did make a few kohiki test tiles with unknown studio white clay slip over standard 266 with promising results but never revisited.... warning the above statements have no science behind other than some empirical results.... i'd me more concerned with getting a well behaved cone 5 clay that is dark enough...... it is possible to re slip/wash over with darker slip/wash then wipe back to white.......
  25. you're not going to like my answer........ TEST TEST TEST could be as simple as weigh out both, weigh grog, wedge then mess out of it.. let rest then wedge the mess out of it again , then run some test bars..... might as well run some test extruded cylinders while your at it.......
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