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About Benzine

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    Socratic Potter

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  • Gender
  • Location
    The Hawkeye State
  • Interests
    The Arts (Drawing, Painting, Ceramics, Graphic Design), Running, Music (Mostly Rock), Movies, Technology
  1. I have found this as well, though most of the students still use standard slip. I'll have them use Magic Water on spots, that I feel will be more likely to crack however. In regards to repairing bone dry wares, I've tried many things over the years. The "spooze" recipe does work well, but I find the join to be relatively weak. Lately I've been experimenting with dampening the two pieces with Magic Water, then using a super saturated slip to join them. With a slight bit of twisting pressure, the saturated slip sets and holds fast, which is great. Then I usually brush on a bit of Magic Water. It creates a really strong join, once fired.
  2. Pres, that's taking it to near Tolkein levels right there!
  3. I have never burned a wood table, with a hot ware. But I've been in a few classrooms, that had marks on them, from someone who did... Even if I was in a rush, I wouldn't set them on my current classroom tables. Even the ones that are made to look like wood, are not wood. It's that plastic veneer stuff. No way, I'd be sanding those burn marks away... There have been times, where I've had to rush unloading, just to reload again, like at the end of the school year. I will get some pings, if I do it too quickly. So what I've started doing is to open the lid for a few seconds, and then close it again. So it removes some of the heat, but not drastic enough to hurt the wares. I do that every so often, and it does seem to help drop the temperature safely, but quicker, than just letting it set. In regards to unloading causing crazing, I have Rakuware that doesn't craze (I'm sure it does when magnified more than normal vision), when going from 1800 F to 20-30 F, so I can't imagine that anything less than that will affect the glaze.
  4. Pres, I can't say I've had my own wares collapse inward, and crack, because I always vent them, but I've seen several student projects that have done so. Also Pres, after seeing your horned jar again, I got a strong Minoan vibe from it.
  5. For personal use, I think it would be pretty nice. They hold A LOT of slop and trimmings. For classroom use, the one I have is kind of a pain, especially because the plugs do not seal well any more. But as I said, if you are the only one using it, I think it would work well. I have a two part pan, at home, and it gets clean "occasionally" aka "When it's full". With a larger pan like the one piece, I would probably only have to clean it every couple months!... I had a student forget to clean the one in my classroom. He was then gone for the remainder of the week, on a vacation. The students, who used the wheel the rest of the week, were instructed not to clean it, and he had to do so, when he returned. So that one piece pan held several student's worth of water, slip and trimmings. And these are beginning students, so there is a lot of all three of those things...
  6. The top could be sagging due to the clay being too soft, which could be fixed, after cutting the top off. However, it could also be due to the air inside the sealed boxed contracting, which pulls the sides inwards. So when making a sealed box, even one that will eventually be separated, it is a good idea, to create a vent hole, to allow air in and out. Just a small needle tool sized opening will suffice. I've done this, when making single thrown, lidded forms on the wheel. The bottom and top are made at the same time, with a groove made part way through, where the two parts will eventually come apart, once they are dry enough to do so. In that groove, I poke the needle through. Otherwise, the lid portion is bound to collapse, and even crack.
  7. Leaving glazed pieces unfired

    I've seen others here state they use a starch spray (Like what you would use on clothes) to protect unfired, glazed wares.
  8. Tell you what, we'll make a deal between the two countries. The U.S. will give the Canadians our goods, for the same price, and you just slip us some of that sweet, sweet cheap prescription medications...
  9. Great tip Mea, I'll be ordering one! Well, you see, the pen has to be issued a passport to get across the border, so it costs extra...
  10. My advice to students, when using wax, "If you intend to use a glaze somewhere, don't get wax in that spot!" We use the liquid wax resist, and I've tried a variety method for removing it (Scraping, sanding, burning with a flame). None were completely successful. Sanding and scraping only get the surface bits, but the wax that got into the porous inner layers still remains. Trying to burn it off is probably worse, since it leaves a bigger mess behind with carbon and such, and still doesn't solve the problem. Latex and paper resists are definitely better, in this regard. If you make a mistake, you can always remove the resist and redo it.
  11. There is usually mold on the fresh bags of clay, when I open them up. It grosses my students out, but I simply explain to them, that their hands are probably dirtier, than the clay... The mold on the clay is either white or black. Usually, if it shows up on the wares/ projects, it's only if they sit awhile. The ware boards are worse, since they don't always have a chance to dry out, as they are constantly being used. On those, it's usually a blackish mold. No matter the case, I never worry about it. On the projects, the kiln will take care of the mold, and on the boards, a little soap and water is adequate. The biggest issue is the bacteria that likes to eat the binder in the underglazes. As the saying goes, the smell of those could knock a buzzard off a manure wagon...
  12. After reading the topic post, your work is the first thing I thought to link to Pres. I remember seeing several "squared" jars on your blog.
  13. I've been throwing for fifteen years or so, and I will still leave a bit too much at the base occasionally (Especially with newer forms). Some of it is just getting a feel for what a thick base feels like, and what a thinner base feels like. I also drag my thumb along the base, to create a groove, before beginning some of my pulls. It gives your fingers a path to follow, and has helped me pull more clay, than just a normal pull.
  14. I find, that my students are confused by the concept of Balance. They usually simplify it as "Symmetrical= The same on both sides" and "Asymmetrical= Different on each side". It doesn't seem to occur to them that just because Asymmetrical isn't the same on both sides means it lacks "Balance".
  15. Ian Currie Test Tiles Forums?

    I find it interesting that reduction causes iron to flux. Why is this?

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