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Slip On Bone Dry Greenware & Slip On Bisquware

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Slip on bone dry greenware. Don't do it. The shrink rates of the bone dry greenware vs a thick slip causes a stress on the vessel. Usually causing cracking. This is why we add slip to leather hard. But can anyone clearly define the stress that causes the cracking?

 

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I'd like to be able to apply slip to bisqued vessels but am worried about shrinking rates there too. Probably it would flake off during or after glaze firing. Has anyone successfully slipped bisqueware. It seems that the key would be to have a slip with a lot of plasticity.

 

Any input appreciated.

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bringleslip.pdf

 

I've used slips attributed to Cynthia Bringle on both leatherhard and bisque wares; for bisque, thin the slip before applying so it dries better. The base recipe is the same . . . but different folks have different combinations of oxides for colors. I use the NC State recipes. My favorites are the white and golden.

bringleslip.pdf

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slip to bisque  often equals engobe.... change in formula. some slips will work.....  but in this case engobe is friend.

 

i see what your thinking you dip bisque in glaze all the time......

 

 

what causes most cracking is one area in contracting or expanding faster than other  (ok over simplified)

 

with leather hard there is less wet to dry gradient and contraction/expansion forces are less

 

try spraying pieces down multiple time over a period of time  keep covered then slip,   then cover well and dry pieces painfully slow.

 

why do you want to slip bisqueware?

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I want to use slip instead of underglaze because I just want to change the color of the clay, not really do underglaze decoration. I'd like to do slip on bisque ware so that if I don't like it I can just rinse and repeat. I would be able to wipe, smudge, speckle, etc. Englobe sounds like it will be worth taking a look at.

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