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synj00

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About synj00

  • Birthday March 22

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    http://dreamsofearth.wordpress.com

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    Georgia

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  1. Thanks for the detailed post BciskePottery! Thats why I love ceramics. With just a few ingredients and techniques one can come up with infinite possibilities. I'll be in Watkinsville, GA this month taking the workshop with Akira. See you in a few weeks Grype!
  2. Why the uneven firings? The hardest part is going to be to get the heat evenly distributed. There are a few options like a buffer brick, 45 degree input burner port, etc.. If I can get one single shelf to cone 10 I'll take it. Its for glaze testing and expirements with reduction and some small wares.
  3. Thanks for the link to the electric woodfire conversion. I'll check it out! It occurs to me that if I make the exit flu a long rectangle such as on the Codyo site link above I can put kiln shelves in any place I want and see if back, middle or front are the most optimal along with giving the option of increasing and decreasing the damper. With that decision out of the way I can implement that tonight. Woohoo! HighBridgePottery - Its the MR100 Venturi Burner from Ward Burners. We spent time on the phone to go over the project and I was under the assumption that this was 6 cubic feet but it was actually only 4 with the extension when I got it. I got the regulator that allows for 11"WC pressure which is a standard. We went this way with the larger burner so that I could have some wiggle room with the pressure and not have to go full blast with a higher pressure. It shouldnt matter that the kiln is smaller, it will heat faster. If I was wrong and it was larger I might stand the chance of not getting enough BTU to heat or have to go to a higher PSI. Anyways, give them a ring, I got the standard reply back in email which was to call in and discuss. There are just too many variables to consider to do via email. Very friendly guy and I'm sure he would walk you through even if you are considering a weed burner or other brand of burner. Also I should add that I'm going to cone 10 so that factors in. Going to cone 6 would be easier and the 750 burner should be plenty. I'll keep you all in the loop. Hopefully this thread helps others who are considering making this type of conversion. Sure beats 4k for a new gas kiln! I'm going to fire this one until it disintegrates.
  4. Thanks for the replies and the links. Actually, Bciskepottery, I saw your page and got some great inspiration to do this! I dont yet have a pyrometer but have cones. I get conflicting information about chimney. Square burner hole apparently means round chimney hole and vice versa? I dont think it should matter that much. We just want to get a good even distribution of heat. Also another question I had was the chimney in relation to the burner port, it seems that if it is at the back of the kiln the heat will just hit the back wall go up and exit. If the chimney is on the same side of the kiln as the burner port it would have to travel inside, up and back to exit which seems would give a better distribution of heat. 3/4 of the way to a downdraft ;-)
  5. Since day 1 I wanted to do wood firing. I started with an electric kiln and although it is possible to do interesting things I'm still focused on ultimately doing Anagama. I cant truly test Cone 10 glazes in my electric and want to get as close to possible to that environment, which means a way to do reduction, neutral and oxidation. So I got a broke down Duncan kiln donated to me and the burner came in today so I'm super excited!!! Stripping it down tonight and getting the elements out then will figure out how to cut the burner port and the top opening. Then I have to find a 40 - 50 gallon tank. Gaaaaaaah excited! df
  6. How wet does everyone have their clay when throwing? I watch videos to learn and get tips on throwing and it seems that they effortlessly move the clay when pulling and shaping. Some folks use a lot of water but that would just create slip on the exterior of the form. I get the same stiff results when using more water than usual. I started out trying to throw with heavily grogged raku clay which was disasterous. I'm now using a more plastic clay which is giving me much better results but it still doesnt feel like what I'm seeing other folks do. I do understand that I'm still basically a beginner and that might have something to do with it. I'm going to experiment with draping a soaked towel over my wedged clay for a night and try to saturate it and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the input. This forum is great!
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