Jamie page Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Have two questions 1. New to the East TN area and will be getting supplies from Highwater Clay. Different clays still confuse me. I need advise to know which of their clays is best for someone still learning. I bisque at 04 and fire at cone 6 with a program from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. 2. I would like to make some oil lamps but need to know how to "safely" make the wick holder. It looks like a simple ball of clay but I would think it would absorb the oil. What clay body and can they be safe at a bisque of 04 and fired at 6? I would like some more throwing lessons. If anyone around Pigeon Forge is offering private lessons or classes please contact me Jamie Page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabama Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 If Highwter Clays can't answer questions they can refer you to another potter in the area who can. As for lessons, you're minutes away from the Arrowmont Craft School in Gatlinburg. Arrowmont Craft Gallery (run by SHCG) is on the campus at the corner. They might know an instructor as well. The school has a reference library for crafts... You're not too far from JC Campbell Folk School in Brasstown, NC. Its out in the boonies, so you can't get there, but its fun trying. Look into the apprenticeship programs in both schools. (There is a a long list, I'm sure. I make oil lamps also, both Roman and colonial. The colonial has a bead the the wick slides in. There shouldn't be an issue with the clay body soaking up oil. The oil I use is the lamp oil bought for Hawaiian torches, sometimes referred to as liquid paraffin. As for wicks they can be ordered, or made from 100% cotton rope. Ropes can be found at the Dollar Tree, as canine rope toys. Take them apart and cut to lengths. However, they are starting to sell rope toys, with a nylon center. I glaze just the top of wick bead, for aesthetics. After use, a lot is covered with soot. Good luck, Alabama Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I use several Highwater clays. You'll probably want one that vitrifies at Cone 6. Red Rock is listed by Highwater as having 1% absorbent rate at Cone 6. It is a nice buff stoneware with flecks of manganese dioxide -- similar to Standard 112. But the key for any seepage issues with oil is vitrification. They have good tech support, give them a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 If bottle is glazed including wick area, Less need for vitrification.... Vitrification is very good idea with any piece glazed or not. Along with glaze matching. Eg not crazing If you really want to play safe, wedge in some grog to minimize thermal shock affects. 600f to 1400f ish flame temp Getting consistent wick hole diameter will be task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusty Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 High Water Little Loafers ^3 to ^6 Fairly soft out of the bag and it just does what i want it to do.. Its a white body that takes glaze nicely .. we struggled finding a clay that we both liked to throw that didnt give us fits... we throw it fairly dry but seems to take water ok. Kyanite would be a good additive for shrinkage as well.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Buncombe White seems to be Highwater's Little Loafers with Kyanite; good claybody, better absorbent than Little Loafers, but not as white. Little Loafers is also a good claybody and my standard. Biglou -- I need to disagree. Vitrification is important as oil will find any crazing in a glaze and seep through -- I was told that by a potter who made oil lamps. In any case, you can't depend on the glaze to make an item water tight. Only a vitrified clay body will do that. A properly vitrified clay body will be water tight without any glazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I agree there is no replacement for proper vitrification. ( no replacement for displacement ) I've tried to to explain. The big picture..... But most here ( local studio) don't understand or want to. Yes I am the guy that has test tiles soaking on my shelves. Most just want pretty glaze...... Rant off What percentage do you consider vitrified? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Fire an unglazed test pot. Fill with oil and monitor it for leaks or seepage. Do this for each new batch of clay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 consistent size holes for wicks can be made with soda straws. cut them in short pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nairda Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 I've made a few oil lamps over the years and found that some bodies/glazes will 'weep' lamp oil through the base even though the body has been fired to its highest maturation temperature with a well-fitting glaze. Axner Pottery supply sells 'Lamp Liner'. It's a liquid for coating the inside of a clay oil lamp that seals it extremely well. Maybe 'water-tight' is different than 'oil-tight'. Perhaps lamp oil has 'skinnier' molecules than water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.