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Paragon Switch wire connections


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In case it helps: clicking either "image link" opens up a web page inviting me to create a Gmail account. So its neither an image nor a direct reference to one.

BTW The A123-B wiring diagram and parts identification document is at
https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/A123WD.pdf
The diagram part is a bit blurred, in B&W and stylized (top, bottom & back views)
image.png.5bae4721cc879d7c9b23d0c3cb052a39.png
 

PS I assume you have looked at the section on switch replacement starting on p42 of the manual, which might be this one:
https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/IM5-A-and-B-Paragon-Inst-Man-Jan2017.pdf

Edited by PeterH
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And i have these diagrams but still dont know how to connect the L2 To the new one.
433076597_962645441531289_8045043105027875684_n.jpg.3a3e8bbc30fea4a6786ceaaf26aa809c.jpg434997284_390611483929704_7996128541396113499_n.jpg.d4192a9ad760605ff20cb1f3f5e2e26a.jpg

It confuses me because the new switch says it is for 250 V but i dont know how to connect it to 220 V, only L1 that is 110 V.

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11 hours ago, PeterH said:

In case it helps: clicking either "image link" opens up a web page inviting me to create a Gmail account. So its neither an image nor a direct reference to one.

BTW The A123-B wiring diagram and parts identification document is at
https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/A123WD.pdf
The diagram part is a bit blurred, in B&W and stylized (top, bottom & back views)
image.png.5bae4721cc879d7c9b23d0c3cb052a39.png
 

PS I assume you have looked at the section on switch replacement starting on p42 of the manual, which might be this one:
https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/IM5-A-and-B-Paragon-Inst-Man-Jan2017.pdf

Yeah, i already read the switch section in the manual.

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@Vidal14PC  220V vs 240V doesn't matter. The switch can handle up to 250 volts, but if you have less than that it's okay.

Does your kiln have a 4 prong plug? If yes, then the instructions with the new switch won't apply here, because those instructions are for a kiln that does not use a neutral.

How many switches does your kiln have?

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1 hour ago, neilestrick said:

@Vidal14PC  220V vs 240V doesn't matter. The switch can handle up to 250 volts, but if you have less than that it's okay.

Does your kiln have a 4 prong plug? If yes, then the instructions with the new switch won't apply here, because those instructions are for a kiln that does not use a neutral.

How many switches does your kiln have?

My kiln has 2 switches with 2 heating elements each. This is the wall plug.
image.jpeg.e83d2091e15f83e66059ebaae57d01d7.jpeg

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2 hours ago, neilestrick said:

@Vidal14PC  220V vs 240V doesn't matter. The switch can handle up to 250 volts, but if you have less than that it's okay.

Does your kiln have a 4 prong plug? If yes, then the instructions with the new switch won't apply here, because those instructions are for a kiln that does not use a neutral.

How many switches does your kiln have?

This is the kiln.

image.jpeg.14a7938fd6f75fd4b0b87646e1de7a2e.jpegimage.jpeg.2f378146213f004f74708b1f9e1bf3f7.jpeg

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Your elements are made to run on 120 volts each. The wiring diagram for the new switch is for them to be run on 240 volts, wired in parallel.  I don't know if it's possible for the new switch to be wired like the old switch or not. It probably is possible, but I don't know that switch well enough to know how it should be wired. Are there any additional labels on the terminals of the new switch besides those shown on the Skutt diagram? If not, I would look up that switch on Google and find the manufacturer's wiring diagram. That switch is not made by Skutt or specifically for Skutt, it's just a general purpose switch that can be used for many applications.

Can you post a picture of the serial plate? This kiln pulls about 24 amps, correct? If I were you, I would replace both switches with  240V infinite switches and wire the elements in series.  You'll have better control of the temps with that setup.

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Posted (edited)
On 4/7/2024 at 8:24 PM, neilestrick said:

Your elements are made to run on 120 volts each. The wiring diagram for the new switch is for them to be run on 240 volts, wired in parallel.  I don't know if it's possible for the new switch to be wired like the old switch or not. It probably is possible, but I don't know that switch well enough to know how it should be wired. Are there any additional labels on the terminals of the new switch besides those shown on the Skutt diagram? If not, I would look up that switch on Google and find the manufacturer's wiring diagram. That switch is not made by Skutt or specifically for Skutt, it's just a general purpose switch that can be used for many applications.

Can you post a picture of the serial plate? This kiln pulls about 24 amps, correct? If I were you, I would replace both switches with  240V infinite switches and wire the elements in series.  You'll have better control of the temps with that setup.

There is no additional labels than the shown on the diagram. And it pulls 36.9 Amp.

image.png.0ec604839982ec1fd637ee78a86a8716.png

Edited by Vidal14PC
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First I'll emphasise that I'm just an interested observer not an expert.

Second  Neil's suggestion of an infinite-switch solution would give you more control during firing, although take more planning and rewiring.

Now the real point, IMHO you may have the wrong replacement switch for your kiln. 

p46 of the A&B series manual shows four different switches (with a fifth mentioned in https://skutt.com/skutt-resources/repairs/switches/).

Your first picture identifies the original switch as an A-21, while the second picture suggests that your replacement is a "new-style 3-heat switch".
image.png.7766058b2d30208e399f4d615749e3bb.png
... from New Style 3-Heat Switch Conversion Instructions in https://skutt.com/skutt-resources/repairs/switches/

It looks like the original A-21 switch is  wired with 7 connections, including L1 & L2.

image.png.cf45ccdee5fcd38ffc61601fa59443d5.pngimage.png.b3fedcf6b16d50022a9b9b09e28c58e0.png
... from https://eadn-wc04-7751283.nxedge.io/wp-content/uploads/IM5-A-and-B-Paragon-Inst-Man-Jan2017.pdf

While the 3-heat switches are wired with only 5 connections, which don't seem to include an L2.
image.png
... again from New Style 3-Heat Switch Conversion Instructions in https://skutt.com/skutt-resources/repairs/switches/

PS Pin-outs for some other 7-connector switches here:

 

Edited by PeterH
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