Edda Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 Hi all, Wondering if I'm applying my bat wash wrong, but when it's dry it transfers easily. See photo. This was just a one thin layer that had weeks to dry. Was going to do a second layer but now not so sure. I'm using a commercial wash that came with the kiln. Worried it will stick to my pots :/ Edda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 If it hasn't been fired on yet then yes it can be dusty. It would just be a guess but the least expensive materials to use in a kiln/ batt wash would be kaolin and silica so if companies are trying to save money with the wash they supply they will load the wash up with that and skimp on alumina hydrate. There is a link below discussing kiln/batt wash with some tried and true recipes (it's towards the end of the link). Also, I would suggest wiping it back from the edge about 1 cm and wipe off any drips from the side of the shelf. https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/20981-frit-substitution-chart-orton-cone-charts-kiln-wash-recipes/ Rae Reich and Hulk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted March 18 Report Share Posted March 18 (edited) I would make my own wash and remove with a wet sponge before firing any commercial wash as it usually poor quality. Speaking of quailty wash I noticed on the Advancer shelve (kiln shelve.com ) site they use the same formula as I posted years ago 1/2 alumina hydrate 1/4 epk 1/4 calcined EPK or (glowmax) Edited March 18 by Mark C. Magnolia Mud Research, Rae Reich, Hulk and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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