Rachael Birch Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 (edited) Hi, I noticed that sometimes after applying glaze, about 24 hours later, it sort of pulls away from the bisqueware. Photos here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/maycomudroomsociety/permalink/1966264987085497/ I'm curious if it will still adhere to my piece in the cone 6 glaze firing that I plan to do soon? Or should I wash it all off and start over? For context, these pieces are Laguna B mix (no grog), bisqued to cone 04 in a friend's electric kiln. I glazed the outside of each bowl by dipping 1 time, then brushed 2 coats of Mayco dark flux into the bottom of each bowl and then, after that was dry, poured Mayco dry glaze into the bowl and poured it out. Thanks in advance for any help. Rachael Edited July 27, 2023 by Rachael Birch added photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 Hi Rachel and welcome to the forum! Not everybody uses the book of faces so it might be an idea to do a screenshot of your images there and put them in your thread here. How soon after the first layer of glaze went on did you brush on the other glazes? Not sure I'm following this bit 1 hour ago, Rachael Birch said: poured Mayco dry glaze into the bowl and poured it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 Not that it’s not possible for this to work, I would say with this level of cracking, highly unlikely. I am with min wondering about pouring dry.glaze in and out. I am not familiar with this technique from Mayco etc… or the expected look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rachael Birch Posted July 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 Hi min and Bill, thank you for your responses. I couldn't see how to add photos when I originally made the post but now I get it so I added one above. Sorry for my garbled communication. I am using Mayco brand dry dipping glaze, which is a powder that you mix with water in a bucket and the application is done either by dipping into the bucket or by pouring it into and then out of your form. I also use Mayco Flux, which you brush on. So my process with these pieces was: 1. Bisque to cone 04 2. Brush 2 coats of Mayco flux onto the inside bottom of each bowl. 3. Dip the piece into glaze for coverage of outside of the form. 4. Pour glaze into the inside of the form and pour out. Between each step I allow the glaze to dry completely. I noticed the cracking occurred after 24 hours. It's been very humid lately and I don't use any air conditioning. Hope this information helps! Thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted July 27, 2023 Report Share Posted July 27, 2023 28 minutes ago, Rachael Birch said: Between each step I allow the glaze to dry completely. Liner glazes can dry completely if you don't apply another glaze overtop of them. But, to apply one glaze overtop of another you want to get the second (covering) glaze on the pot as soon as possible to prevent the lifting you are getting. Don't wait until the underlying glaze is completely dry, do it as soon as possible The thicker the glaze layer the higher the chance of peeling or lifting of the previous glaze. It is possible to layer glazes thickly if you add gum (or Magma) to the glaze. Gums help harden and bind the raw glaze to the bisque. Watch you don't get the glaze layers too thick though as this will lead to crawling during the glaze fire. Rae Reich and Callie Beller Diesel 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rae Reich Posted July 28, 2023 Report Share Posted July 28, 2023 I have re-stuck lifted glaze SOMETIMES by misting very gently with water to get the glaze to lie down again, but there have been some places where touch-up was necessary. Otherwise, wash off and start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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