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looking for a true white matte commercial glaze

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Hi Maria and welcome to the forum.

If you have the option to fire a little bit cooler it just might be enough to use your existing glaze. Are you firing to cone 05 now or hotter or cooler? Also, how is the kiln cooling? If you slow down how fast the kiln cools this can have a dramatic effect on how some glazes cool. 

Can't help on suggesting a commercial matte glaze, hopefully someone who uses them will chime in.

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A note about true white and ceramics: the clay body underneath the white glaze frequently affects the tint. Especially if you’re using any clay that isn’t a very white stoneware or a porcelain, white glazes will tint blue or yellow, depending on the opacifier used. If you’re sculpting with a beige/grey/red/speckled clay body, if you put a layer of white slip over your piece before the bisque, you’ll avoid the tinting. 

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5 hours ago, Mariap said:

I do not have control over kiln temp, I am firing in my school's kiln.

Ask the person firing the kiln what cone they fire to and if there is a cooler part of the kiln you can try a test tile in to see if firing the Amaco LM11 cooler helps matte the glaze.

BTW, zircopax is an opacifier, I haven't found it will matte a glaze with typical amounts used, it will whiten a clear glaze though.

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From very cold/snow bound Minneapolis:

You have two options: 1) find a matte glaze that works for you OR 2) simply leave your piece unglazed and use underglazes. 

1: white color, in a glaze, is achieved by using a white color or opacifier.  Zircopax is both. It's also cheap. It does, however, have a slight ivory color to it. That it why its often coupled with a truely white material, Mason Stain White 6700 or tin oxide. The Mason Stain is about 2x the cost of zircopax and tin oxide is on par with cobalt these days. (very expensive) Both of these additives are a bit "whiter" than zirco (its subjective I would say) but owing to the expense are usually used to boost the zirco and not used outright. Something like 8% zircopax and 2% 6700 or tin could be a good starting point.

2: the Amaco underglazes, fired to glaze temps, would give you a very DRY surface if thats what you're looking for. The LUG version is more zircopax like, in appearance, and the Velvet version is a much colder white. Apply three coats, with a brush, and you should have a nice opaque color.  (I usually like to thin the first coat so it brushes smoothly.)

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