mandyk Posted December 13, 2022 Report Share Posted December 13, 2022 I have a 10 sided Skutt kiln, a KM-1027-3, which I'm finding is a bit of an "old" kiln, in my research. I had to replace the lid band recently, and that all went just fine, but I'm running into an issue with re-attaching the Lid Brace. This is the only part I didn't photograph before disassembling everything, and I can't seem to find pictures online, since it's an older model. Now I'm not sure where along the lid I should re-attach the part that the brace arm is connected to. I can take my best guess, but I'd rather ask a few other people with the same kiln! Can someone add a photo of their own lid brace or describe to me where I should screw this in? My guess is just above and to the left of the prop piece and guard, but how far? Again, I'd rather not guess and use someone else's photo as a guide! Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 14, 2022 Report Share Posted December 14, 2022 @mandyk The arm piece attaches to the lid directly above the prop, so that the arm hangs straight down in the prop frame when the lid is closed. Both attach to the left side of the kiln as you look at it, 90 degrees from the center of the hinge. THIS VIDEO shows the placement. Also THIS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mandyk Posted December 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 @neilestrick Both the links you included show the lid brace upgrade, which I do not have, so the images don't really help me. Thanks, though, for the descriptor of the arm hanging straight down, and 90 degrees from the center of the hinge. Would still love to see images of the older-style brace if someone has it on their own kiln! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 ...how's this? It's not the three-inch brick though. Circa 1980s Skutt 1027, the original brace is attached just forward of the point/angle that is in-between the flats where the handle and hinge (fore and aft) are attached. Let me know if there's another angle that would help, and/or anything else. Raising and lowering this lid, am being very careful, deliberate, and slow, for there is some flaking that I don't want to make worse. I'll be offline for most of the day, will check back asap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 15, 2022 Report Share Posted December 15, 2022 There's a lot of leeway in these lid braces. If you're a few inches either way it's not going to matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mandyk Posted December 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2022 @Hulk Yes, thank you! That's exactly what I was hoping for. So - it attaches just forward of the bend/angle, and your photo shows the arm dropped straight down, as @neilestrick said. Also, Neil, knowing that there's a lot of leeway helps, too! I was worried there wouldn't be much wiggle room, and that then I'd be putting un-due strain on the brace and thereby bricks if I didn't get it in just the right place. Thank you both for your time! This really helps me feel more confident in reattaching it. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted December 17, 2022 Report Share Posted December 17, 2022 ine 1227 has this lid brace as well-Hulks photos shows it well. Use a small center punch to dimple the metel than drill a smaller hole in new metal band for screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mandyk Posted December 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2022 Thanks everyone! Since I'm a newbie... can you now help teach me if there's a way to mark the issue resolved? I understand that it might be helpful to someone else to read about further down the road, but you've helped me figure it out, and I don't need any more responses. I know I can unfollow the topic, but I don't want to waste anyone else's time on writing up more responses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 4 hours ago, mandyk said: Thanks everyone! Since I'm a newbie... can you now help teach me if there's a way to mark the issue resolved? I understand that it might be helpful to someone else to read about further down the road, but you've helped me figure it out, and I don't need any more responses. I know I can unfollow the topic, but I don't want to waste anyone else's time on writing up more responses We don't have a way to specifically mark it as resolved, but I think this statement will do it. Glad you got the answer you needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Longtin Posted December 19, 2022 Report Share Posted December 19, 2022 On 12/17/2022 at 11:08 AM, Mark C. said: ine 1227 has this lid brace as well-Hulks photos shows it well. Use a small center punch to dimple the metel than drill a smaller hole in new metal band for screws A few years ago I was replacing a brace, on one of our glaze kilns, and my drill bit was dull. My boss brought it to my attention that a small nail easily punctures stainless steel. Turns out he was right. You don't want to pound the hell out of it but a gentle strike, with a hammer, does the trick. (And make sure the nail is sharp.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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