Shaft Seal on old slip casting pouring table

[JDavisdp]

Hi,

Does anyone know what this part is called?

It was at the bottom of the slip casting pouring table. 

The shaft is no longer vertical which alters the belt/pully alignment.

Thanks!

Jared D

 

 

[Hulk]

Hi David!

The stationary portion (I'm guessing this middle portion is stationary)

may also include a bearing or bushing - something that supports the rotating shaft - as well as a seal, in which case "bearing assembly" may be as appropriate as "shaft seal," however, the forum community likely could come up with another half dozen or so phrases...

Well, I'm curious now! I'd like to see some images of the entire unit.
Looks like the lower portion is outside the tank, driven by a belt on that pulley, and the upper part is inside the slip tank? Is there an impeller or somewhat that is fixed to the top end of the shaft?

The slip tables I'm seeing don't include any belt driven bits - all direct drive.

Any road, if there is no other provision for supporting the shaft, there "must be" a bearing or bushing in there that has failed, eh?
Looks like the piece is meant to be rebuildable, note the set screw on the pulley.

[JDavisdp]

Hi, 

It is really really old. Could have contained 1 or two bronze bushings. Can't really tell. I think it may be too far gone to try to repair. Just getting the old bushing(s?) out would be a project. I don't have a metal lathe.

 

[Min]

@Jeff Longtin any ideas?

[Hulk]

Thanks, that is so cool!

That should be serviceable by a machine shop.

I'm curious if the collar on the tankside is removable?

If so, bring that into the shop along with the other parts, where, my guess, the pulleys, shaft and surely that propellor (!), fitted with modern seal and bearings pressed into a new collar bit (else resurface the old one) that bolts on.

That said, perhaps adding a mounting point for a mixer that reaches down from above, then just plug the hole where the original was?

 

Edited July 16, 2022 by Hulk
image?

[neilestrick]

19 minutes ago, Hulk said:

That said, perhaps adding a mounting point for a mixer that reaches down from above, then just plug the hole where the original was?

Came here to say this. I'd just rig a top mount. For what you're going to pay a machine shop you'll probably come out the same or even ahead and have an easier time servicing it in the future.

[JDavisdp]

Thanks for the replies.

Replacing with a top drive does seem like a path with less leaks in the future.

Any rule of thumb on prop rpm?  As I bought it was 1725motor rpm * 2/3 = 1150rpm at prop (2" diameter on motor, 3" on prop)

Direct drive + motor controller? 

[Bill Kielb]

15 hours ago, JDavisdp said:

Any rule of thumb on prop rpm?  As I bought it was 1725motor rpm * 2/3 = 1150rpm at prop (2" diameter on motor, 3" on prop)

I think your math is good and I would stick with the same prop and same speed range. It’s proven to not cavitate  excessively already with that prop.. You might matchup the hp of your old motor and correct as necessary if it’s direct drive.

[Jeff Longtin]

Hey Min,

I looked at this but couldn't come up with an explanation either. Without seeing it in full context I'd only be guessing.