nancylee Posted April 7, 2022 Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 And everything I'm finding online isn't very clear. I want to use the dark oxide like a wash on my bear and then use underglazes for his face and nose. Thanks for any help in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted April 7, 2022 Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 Okay. Because I’m nosy, I checked out your blog to try and see where you’re at, and that lead me to your instagram, so I know you’ve sculpted a bear that you now need to decorate. Looks great, btw! If anyone wants to go have a quick look, here it is. If it was me, I’d lay down some base colours with the underglazes, and then bisque. After that, dilute your oxide very thinly with water, brush on so it lands in the texture. Allow to dry, and wipe off the high points. Cover with clear glaze and fire again. You can add more layers before you glaze, but that’s the general idea. This should work for colourants like iron. If you’re using mason stains, or if you don’t intend to use a clear glaze, you’ll want to mix your pigment with equal parts epk and frit. The frit is to help the oxide fuse to the piece, and the clay is for working properties, and to keep the wash from getting too strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nancylee Posted April 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 7 minutes ago, Callie Beller Diesel said: Okay. Because I’m nosy, I checked out your blog to try and see where you’re at, and that lead me to your instagram, so I know you’ve sculpted a bear that you now need to decorate. Looks great, btw! If anyone wants to go have a quick look, here it is. If it was me, I’d lay down some base colours with the underglazes, and then bisque. After that, dilute your oxide very thinly with water, brush on so it lands in the texture. Allow to dry, and wipe off the high points. Cover with clear glaze and fire again. You can add more layers before you glaze, but that’s the general idea. This should work for colourants like iron. If you’re using mason stains, or if you don’t intend to use a clear glaze, you’ll want to mix your pigment with equal parts epk and frit. The frit is to help the oxide fuse to the piece, and the clay is for working properties, and to keep the wash from getting too strong. Thank you very much!! LOL!! Yes, I should have included a picture!! I already bisqued him. I should have asked her first!! I have iron oxide and have an electric kiln! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted April 7, 2022 Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 You can still proceed as described. I’d still recommend firing in between the underglaze and the wash, because if you try and wipe down the piece and the UG isn’t fused on, you’ll wipe it away too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nancylee Posted April 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2022 Oh, good suggestion. Thank you!! I bisque to 05. Can I fire again at that before the final steps and firing at cone 6? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted April 8, 2022 Report Share Posted April 8, 2022 What Callie said. Maybe a range of tests aforehand? A load of test squares/shapes, a couple square inches*, with similar texture, try some different applications, layers, etc. Nice bear! *I do a medium cylinder, cut up once leather hard, like a pie, six or ten slices, so each piece of wall has some foot to stand on, like an "L" - then tweak it so it stands well, flatten the upright a little bit. Test tiles can fit between taller pieces without taking any "room" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted April 8, 2022 Report Share Posted April 8, 2022 23 hours ago, nancylee said: Can I fire again Yes. While you can’t re-fire pieces indefinitely, a handful of rebisques shouldn’t present any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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