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Kiln controller upgrade


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I am looking at upgrading my skutt kilns to the newer touchscreen interface. Pretty straight forward process. But can you use one of these interfaces on on a competitors kiln. I have a couple old olympics of similar size, ect to a 1027. They are about to become, individually zoned, relayed, ect. Perfect time for an upgrade. I know Bartlet has the Genesis programer, but I like continuity if I can get it.

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The Skutt non-touchscreen controller is bigger than the standard Bartlett controller. The touchscreen upgrade has a mounting plate that fits the larger Skutt hole. You could probably put in on your other kilns, but you'd have to drill new holes. Take a look at the installation instructions for the Skutt and make sure there isn't something that would be a problem. The Genesis controller is less expensive than the Skutt upgrade. 

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I had to build my own box for the olympic controller, so I could get zone control. I'm trying to just mount it to the wall, or a pedestal, so the mount isn't much of a concern. I used a skutt control box rewire kit to build it, because I always have spares. My only wonder, for now lol, is the difference in resistance between the two kilns elements. I couldn't find any info on the olympic 2327 element resistance. Skutt, no problem

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1 hour ago, Johnmicheal said:

My only wonder, for now lol, is the difference in resistance between the two kilns elements. I couldn't find any info on the olympic 2327 element resistance. Skutt, no problem

Do you mean in terms of the controller? The controller doesn't care about the elements, it just has to switch the relays.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Genesis is cheaper, but my wife's sanity has value also. It'll be easier for her to fire if there is continuity between the various kiln bodies we have. I don't really care about the app stuff, I've had wifi cameras on my kilns for a couple years. But I do like the very visual way of creating, and tracking our programs. 

 

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  • 1 year later...
11 hours ago, Johnmicheal said:

Soooo, not to beat a dead horse, but now I have too replace the elements in that 2327 Olympic, I have the skutt controller, would it be a big deal to just put 1027 skutt elements, rather than the Olympic elements. And, is there really an difference between them anyways.

Skutt elements come pre-bent at the corners, so they may not fit exactly the same in the Olympic. Differences in the spacing between the elements, slight differences in the length of the bricks, and the angle of the grooves in the transition bricks, and the location of the pigtail holes could all add up to a real mess. If they were not pre-bent it would not be an issue. Stick with the Olympic elements.

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Referencing the prebent elements, I got a set of 1027 elements for my weird skutt kiln ( that I suspect is not a real one, but who knows, lol) and of course the bends didn't fit the kiln, and had to very carefully unbend, then rebend to fit, that sucked, luckily it was only one. So I see the merit in your suggestion.

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5 hours ago, Johnmicheal said:

Referencing the prebent elements, I got a set of 1027 elements for my weird skutt kiln ( that I suspect is not a real one, but who knows, lol) and of course the bends didn't fit the kiln, and had to very carefully unbend, then rebend to fit, that sucked, luckily it was only one. So I see the merit in your suggestion.

In the future, get elements for the weird Skutt from Euclids, as they will not be pre-bent.

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2 hours ago, Johnmicheal said:

I assume all of these kilns, with similar sizes, use elements that are made from the same material, unless you get into the high heat stuff. Do they have the same resistance.

They all use elements of the same material, but depending on the brand they will use wire of different thickness and roll them in a different diameter coil, so they may or may not fit into the brick grooves if you go with a different brand. Some manufacturers also use graded elements, where there are elements of different resistances in the kiln to compensate for cold spots. The setup can also vary from brand to brand, where some may have the elements wired in series but others will have them wired in parallel. It's always best to stick with the manufacturer, or order from Euclids, which can make them to the same specs.

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