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Spray glazing turns satin glaze glossy?


moh

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True matte glazes are generally a function of the si:al ratio. With varying degrees of matte as the ratio goes from about 4:1 (very matte) to high gloss say about 8:1. Knowing this, it would seem to be potentially not all your glaze components are being sprayed out of the gun.

Glazes can also appear matte, satin etc... because they are underfired.  So the possibility exists that your spray coating is not as thick as well. You could scratch off a touch or place a piece of tape and then remove in both circumstances to identify if it’s a thickness difference thing. Does your spray gun have a filter? Do you agitate regularly while spraying? Is it a siphon sprayer so the lightest particles are picked up and the heaviest not? What air pressure do you spray with? What is your glaze recipe? Do you have a couple example pictures showing each?

If you can post any of that it likely will get some good analysis by folks here.

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The thicker I spray it the glossier it gets.. Yes my thoughts too, something's not coming out as it should.

All my spray guns are syphon fed. Here's the one I'm having this problem in:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Spray-Gun-H4930SSG/203496910

I spray at 45 psi. Although recently started doing a weird pulsating spray instead of a consistent smooth spray.
We have a 30 gallon compressor but it's used and shared in multiple stations through long tubes. 

The glaze is mixed well -- and there isn't really time where it just sits, it's used continuously.

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Best I can tell this comes with a 1.8 mm tip which will require that your glaze be thinned considerably from dipping thickness when spraying to be able to spray evenly. That likely means spraying more coats to achieve the same coverage  so something like three wet even coats spraying equals 1-2 dipping coats. Your pictures will be interesting, if you know the glaze recipe it will be more interesting to see if this glaze ought to be matte and ............ if you can try with another glaze or two just as a comparison it would likely determine if it’s a glaze dependent issue or just the sprayer or spray application. My preferred tip diameter is really about 1.8mm but that does mean I spray very wet and my glazes need to be mixed and meshed really well so all the components go through the nozzle.

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On 2/26/2021 at 5:20 AM, moh said:

We have a 30 gallon compressor but it's used and shared in multiple stations through long tubes.

A compressor with a 30gl holding tank.

Is it possible more folks are using the spray guns on that line? 

Not that this has direct relation to your glaze...

But you can possibly install small "satellite" holding tanks at each station, this way pressure won't change if everyone is on em.

My argument to the community would be that eventually, your inconsistent sprays will lead to ruined shelves and Kilns. Make em spend that $!

Sorce

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5 hours ago, Sorcery said:

A compressor with a 30gl holding tank.

But you can possibly install small "satellite" holding tanks at each station, this way pressure won't change if everyone is on em.

Sorce

I guess now days this is a bad idea. We did this at work and ended up having to have 3 motors rebuilt before the air compressor technician told us that compressor motors are now value engineered to a specific tank size and duty.  So we essentially doubled our tank capacity, which meant the compressor motor was running twice as long to fill capacity and caused it to burn out.

We ended up getting a motor rated for our total capacity and we still burn it out about once a year, but it's much better now.

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, liambesaw said:

We ended up getting a motor rated for our total capacity and we still burn it out about once a year, but it's much better now

Higher service factor, better cooling. Once per year is crazy short. Imagine having to replace your furnace blower motor yearly or your AC compressor motor.......... every year! 

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48 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

Higher service factor, better cooling. Once per year is crazy short. Imagine having to replace your furnace blower motor yearly or your AC compressor motor.......... every year! 

Its in service 16-20 hours a day, we have yet to find a motor that will handle our load despite going through multiple compressor maintenance companies.

Compressed air is a very big part of pretty much every aspect of my job, operating pneumatic presses, injection molding machines, milling machines, etc.  Before we had our recent issues (which are now not all that recent), we had the original motor running for 20+ years with no maintenance.  If you have a connection for high quality compressor and suction motors I'll take that from you ;)

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1 hour ago, liambesaw said:

you have a connection for high quality compressor and suction motors I'll take that from you ;)

I don’t have a special maintenance connection., I would take the original nameplate  and work accordingly to spec a new motor. Since you know the existing horsepower, frame, service factor loading by measuring the temp rise. Make the measurements then next time specify a more appropriate replacement . Not rocket science actually, every large building fan is specified for continuous operation often at high horsepowers (50, 75, 100.. etc...) when you look at the system operation, you may get ideas on better cooling. Compressors  produce lots and lots of heat so their effect on the ambient temp often is an issue. Air cooled cylinders are a common thing  but they end up as nice ambient radiant heaters for the drive motors.

With your background I think you could figure out easily actually. Think outside the box, outdoor air  for cooling?

 

843FA09F-8970-493B-A2CB-D615A6FCE859.jpeg

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