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Thermocoupler


ronfire

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Changing my Skutt KS 1027 kiln to a custom wall mount Genesis controller.

Which thermocouple is better  the 14 ga or 8 ga. I would think the 8ga would last longer.

That about a protection tube? L&L seams to think they are good.

Looking to build a trouble free( less trouble ) system with solid state relay

I use plainsman m340 and clear glaze so it appears very forgiving.

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12 hours ago, ronfire said:

Changing my Skutt KS 1027 kiln to a custom wall mount Genesis controller.

Which thermocouple is better  the 14 ga or 8 ga. I would think the 8ga would last longer.

That about a protection tube? L&L seams to think they are good.

Looking to build a trouble free( less trouble ) system with solid state relay

I use plainsman m340 and clear glaze so it appears very forgiving.

Heavier last longer. Thermocouples are simply two dissimilar metals welded together, doesn’t matter their gauge except for lifespan in a harsh environment. All kiln thermocouples shed, so protection tubes keep this from dropping in the kiln and do extend the life of the thermocouple a bit. If you install a protection tube, you will likely enter some offset to account for the slower reaction of the covered thermocouple. Make sure the thermocouple extends down the tube and gently touches the end  of ceramic tube.

IMO covered are superior.

SSR’s are not plug and play, significant thought is necessary. For safety and longevity.

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Just now, ronfire said:

Can the thermocouple be cut shorter to fit a kiln?

I see that Pottery Supply House carries a 12" 8 ga thermocouple.

 

You can cut as much off the back side as you need. Just two wires welded together, the tip is the only important part.

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  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, ronfire said:

What offset do you program in for the protected thermocouple?

It would depend on the composition of the protection tube and the brick penetration,  the holder, cooling from the backside of the design, ........ etc... I think L&L these days are 18f  ( maybe @neilestrick Knows by  heart) but not uncommon to slide up and down this by five degrees at a try. Calibrating usually requires  running  an automatic cone fire program so the firing rate at the end of the firing is somewhat consistent and your calibration has meaning throughout all cone fire programs.


It is possible you will need no offset as well. A lot of these things depend on whether the particular kiln can maintain a steady predefined rate in the last segment of the firing per the Orton chart which will be about an hour and a half. So less dependent on the cooling effect of the thermocouple cover / kiln combination and more so on the available power of the kiln.

I mention  this because other factors often require independent cone offsets for each To behave correctly. Maybe start with the L&L  18f and see if you can work that into the automatic bisque and glaze cones you fire to.    Especially good to figure out after new elements though.

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