cheekwrinkle Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 I want to do a project that has a design made from an underglaze but doesn't have any overglaze or a glossy finish. I don't know what to use for an underglaze; I've never used pigments, oxides, or stains before. Will any of them set permanently and be opaque on bisqueware without an further steps or maybe just require a kitchen oven to set? For example, the underglaze on tranferware beach pottery shards hold up very well and still has that bisqueware texture that I want to keep. Will the color only set if I apply it to leather-hard and then fire it? Or will it only set if I fire the bisqueware again after the underglaze has been applied? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Underglaze needs to be fired, either apply before it's bisqued or apply after it's bisqued and then fired again. You should still fire to the clays maturation temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEP Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 5 hours ago, cheekwrinkle said: Will any of them set permanently and be opaque on bisqueware without an further steps or maybe just require a kitchen oven to set? There really isn’t a solution that does not need to be kiln-fired. If you are making non-functional work, i.e. it doesn’t need to be food-safe or hold water, then it fine to leave your surfaces unglazed and only partially fired, if that’s the look you want. But the underglaze still needs to be fired. You can either apply the underglaze onto leather hard pots so it gets fired in the bisque firing. Or, you can apply underglaze to a bisque fired pot (which is useful if you want the ability to erase mistakes), and bisque fire the pot again. Just to emphasize, if you’re trying to make functional pots, then my advice won’t work. Functional pots need to be fired to maturity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Underglazes have to be fired. Commercial underglazes can be applied to leather hard, bone dry, or bisque. To be food safe you do have to put a glaze over them. But if you like the matte surface of raw underglaze and it's in an area that won't contact food, then you don't have to put a glaze on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 If it’s a decorative project that doesn’t require scrubbing, is there any reason not to just use acrylic paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheekwrinkle Posted February 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 2 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said: If it’s a decorative project that doesn’t require scrubbing, is there any reason not to just use acrylic paint? I wanted to experiment with either tissue transfers or silkscreens like this. The project will experience wear overtime, so I want the color to hold up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 If it’s going outside, you will need to fire it: it’ll be infinitely more durable. You will find that commercial tissue transfers can still rub off with a little effort, even after bisque: underglazes are likely your best bet. If your piece is already bisqued, you can just fire underglazes a second time without glaze over them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 cheekwrinkle, stroke & coat is a glaze, not an underglaze. it needs to be fired to become permanent. washing, handling etc, will remove the surface if it is not fired. that would be true if it were an underglaze as well. i watched the video and saw that the written words said it is an underglaze but if you look at the Mayco website, it will tell you clearly that stroke&coat is a glaze. maybe you could let the video maker know they have a mistake on that video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Put the underglazes on at the bone dry stage and bisque fire. The underglaze will be fused to the bisque ware enough to withstand being washed, rubbed, and otherwise handling. The integrity of the bisque fired underglaze now be equivalent to the integrity of the bisque ware. Or simply re-bisque fire the bisque ware after applying the underglaze. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 Stroke N Coat is often referred to as an underglaze, and can basically be used as one, but it will melt out like glaze. It works at a brad range of firing temps. It will melt and fuse fine at low fire temps, but you can fire it up to cone 6 and it won't run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callie Beller Diesel Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 You can take many of them up to cone ten in fact. The oranges, yellows and reds will burn out though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 will try to move a photo of stroke & coat fired to cone 10 in a wood fired kiln. can't do it. is in my album re Kim Kirchman and shows how she puts colors on her work before firing. she uses reds and yellows all the time. and that is the album that lost the photos. i have asked for help with it but no response from web folks. will try to find the originals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 29, 2020 Report Share Posted February 29, 2020 found the originals. the handled pot is just bisque. the other one has been wood fired to cone 10 in a salt firing. cannot get this into the previous post with the photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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