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Is there an underglaze that will stay on bisqueware without being fired?


cheekwrinkle

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I want to do a project that has a design made from an underglaze but doesn't have any overglaze or a glossy finish. I don't know what to use for an underglaze; I've never used pigments, oxides, or stains before. Will any of them set permanently  and be opaque on bisqueware without an further steps or maybe just require a kitchen oven to set? For example, the underglaze on tranferware beach pottery shards hold up very well and still has that bisqueware texture that I want to keep. Will the color only set if I apply it to leather-hard and then fire it?  Or will it only set if I fire the bisqueware again after the underglaze has been applied? 

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5 hours ago, cheekwrinkle said:

Will any of them set permanently  and be opaque on bisqueware without an further steps or maybe just require a kitchen oven to set?

There really isn’t a solution that does not need to be kiln-fired.

If you are making non-functional work, i.e. it doesn’t need to be food-safe or hold water, then it fine to leave your surfaces unglazed and only partially fired, if that’s the look you want. But the underglaze still needs to be fired. You can either apply the underglaze onto leather hard pots so it gets fired in the bisque firing. Or, you can apply underglaze to a bisque fired pot (which is useful if you want the ability to erase mistakes), and bisque fire the pot again. 

Just to emphasize, if you’re trying to make functional pots, then my advice won’t work. Functional pots need to be fired to maturity. 

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Underglazes have to be fired. Commercial underglazes can be applied to leather hard, bone dry, or bisque. To be food safe you do have to put a glaze over them. But if you like the matte surface of raw underglaze and it's in an area that won't contact food, then you don't have to put a glaze on top.

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If it’s going outside, you will need to fire it: it’ll be infinitely more durable. You will find that commercial tissue transfers can still rub off with a little effort, even after bisque: underglazes are likely your best bet. If your piece is already bisqued, you can just fire underglazes a second time without glaze over them. 

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cheekwrinkle,  stroke & coat is a glaze, not an underglaze.   it needs to be fired to become permanent.  washing, handling etc, will remove the surface if it is not fired.    that would be true if it were an underglaze  as well.   i watched the video and saw that the written words said it is an underglaze but if you look at the Mayco website, it will tell you clearly that stroke&coat is a glaze.  maybe you could let the video maker know they have a mistake on that video.

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Put the underglazes on at the bone dry stage and bisque fire.  The underglaze will be fused to the bisque ware enough to withstand being washed, rubbed, and otherwise handling.  The integrity of the bisque fired underglaze now be equivalent to the integrity of the bisque ware.  Or simply re-bisque fire the bisque ware after applying the underglaze.  


LT

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805654045_kimkirchmanwork003.JPG.b1045a5f05abd794608e292518a3a202.JPGwill try to move a photo of stroke & coat fired to cone 10 in a wood fired kiln.

can't do it.  is in my album re Kim Kirchman and shows how she puts colors on her work before firing.  she uses reds and yellows all the time.  and that is the album that lost the photos.  i have asked for help with it but no response from web folks.

will try to find the originals.

kim kirchman work 002.JPG

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