p10 porcelain masonite or plaster bats

[Wyndham]

I've ventured back into porcelain for some clay self abuse. I'm trying  highwaters p10 cone 10 and running into an old problem. I use masonite bats for my c10 stoneware with no problem running cut wire after turning. After making sure there's no water around base and making a clean trim line before cut off, P10 is re attaching and when it  releases taking chunks of clay at the foot. These are old 8x8 in drop in homemade bats for small pieces and mugs.

The porcelain is for crystalline serving plates(cracker,cookies and such)

If I continue with porcelain, should I pour some plaster or ceramical bats to give even drying and release times or make new Masonite 8x8's and add a water seal.

The drying from the outside of the foot is where the problem is. A drying/damp  box is not a practical at this time

Thanks for any thoughts Wyndham

[glazenerd]

Wyndham:

Look at the fired color of the Heios and the P10 on their website. Notice there is only a slight color difference in the Helios: the darker cream color in reduction is caused by titanium- very normal. Then look at the color difference  in the P10: turned to medium gray in reduction. The gray color indicates high magnesium and minor increases in iron: which means ball clay has been added. Kaolin does not have high enough levels of magnesium to cause these color shifts in firing. Add to this the fact that sodium seems to be the flux of choice for this maker: I would expect shredding to be a problem regardless. If your process allows and you have enough batts: cut the piece off the next day after it firms off.

have you done a crystalline firing with this body yet? If higher levels of sodium are present, you will see an increase in population. However, at cone 10 this effect is minimized. At cone 6, it would be much more problematic.

nerd

[Min]

Wyndham, have you tried a heavier cut off wire? I had a clay that would heal over the cut off, went to a braided thick  wire and problem was solved.

I mostly use plaster batts but do have quite a few high density mdf also, prefer the plaster for big stuff so I don't have to wire off.

[Wyndham]

I'll try wait til firmer before cut off. Interesting observation about the clay content. I know Starworks (Starwhite c10) has soda spar and it tends to craze. I have had good results with Miller 55 a 6-10 clay at c10 for crystalline but don't like the way it throws.

Will also try a thcker cut off wire.

Wyndham

[Mark C.]

As much as I hate masonite Bats I would takes Mins suggestion and use a thicker cut off wire-I do just that on sticky bats ands it a quick fix.

My love for plater pie tin homemade  bats cures all you issues.I use a 9 inch and a 6 inch pie tins too make them.

[neilestrick]

Just re-cut them. I do this every day with dozens of pots. Everything sticks to the plastic bats my students use. The thicker wire is also a good idea. I've got some students who use the Dirty Girls thin wire and while they cut very easily, they don't do a good job of separating the pot from the wheel.

The more absorbent a bat is, the more likely the pot will pop off without re-cutting. A thicker material will absorb more moisture than thin masonite. I'd switch to 1/4" or 3/8" Medex.