Ja.Sc.

Thanks Hulk, I was running through all these threads late into the night trying to ingest all the separate factors for each shelf type, and weighing that against cost and my personal use scenario. So there was a lot of tab hopping. It seems that standard cooling, where the kiln is off, and vent continues to run is within the range of acceptable cooling rates? If anything it would still cool more slowly than using all silicon carbide shelves, right? Crash cooling would be taking additional measures to increase the rate of cooling? If that's the case, I don't think I'd need to be concerned, I'm not in a rush. I'm thinking the biggest potential for trouble would be having two shelves of different heat loads on the same level, potentially creating uneven cooling, also easily avoidable.

Hi, I'm looking at a set of Nitride-Bonded Silicon Carbide shelves for my kiln for the obvious benefits. I've got a two questions that are holding me up at the moment. 1. Is there any reason I can't do mixed shelving in a single firing. I've got a Skutt 1227, so replacing all the shelves is a bit more expensive than I'd like to do at the moment, and there's only a few shelves that really need it. 2. For the crash cooling aspect.. How is crash cooling different than running a cone fire program where the kiln simply stops? Will I need to run a program to manage cooling with these? I'll only ever be firing to cone 6.

Ah. That just clicked. I will proceed with the 60amp breaker. Thanks all.

@Dick White should this say “if” not unless? I can’t tell if because it’s 6ga. it should be replaced. Thanks.

It is #6 copper wire for all three wires, this I know I confirmed with the electrician.

It’s a 2pole 50 amp breaker. I’ll have this replaced before I fire it up

The electrician I used to run the wire installed a 14-50R receptacle, which blame falls on both parties for not clarifying that I needed the 6-50R. No problem, I got the proper outlet and switched it out. Problem, I hooked up two ground and one hot. Anyhow, just got those switched around and the outlet is now pulling 240V. Fingers crossed for a hot kiln.

ERR1 is the code The relays are still clear for the most part, the 1-2 relay has a slight discoloration on one side, but still mostly clear It seems this is the problem. Only getting 120V. Elements are correct - 240V 1 P Thank you @neilestrick!

Thanks @neilestrick, ran the paper test all pieces of paper started to singe. Yes the holes are 1/4” vent holes. The previous owner had drilled 8 in the top and 6 in the bottom.

Hello! I'm having trouble with my kiln getting up to temp. Haven't gotten it to fire up to temp at all. I've replaced the elements, which were at least a decade old probably 15yrs, and have measured Ohms, Top to Bottom: 13.7,14,16, 16,13.7,13.7 There were way to many holes in the lid and floor which I'v temporarily plugged with clay until I get this sorted. Currently 3 top holes and 2 bottom holes Kiln lid seems to have a tight fit, only one spot that would just take a slip of paper. I did just notice today that it's running on a 50amp breaker and not the 60amp as listed in the manual. What would be the next things to check? Edit to add: Down draft vent system

Thanks for the recommendations everyone! You saved me a bunch of time! I picked up a rubbing brick and it worked like a charm. There's still some spots on the shelves that would require chiseling, but those are flush and I'll cover with kiln wash.

I purchased a used kiln from a rural area school, they were downsizing to a smaller kiln requiring less power and to be able to fire more frequently. There are some nasty looking pits in the a couple shelves from melted, clay/glaze/something that make me wonder if I should even use them. They definitely didn't fire past cone 6, which is all I intend to go to, but can this leftover fused gunk further compromise the shelf? I haven't fired the kiln yet, but I'm getting close to the first bisque load. Should I get a replacement? There are also a few shelves with large patches of run glaze. I've been working on chipping that off, how thorough do I need to be? If there is a pin head spot of glaze under the kiln wash, should I take that out? These are the worst of them.

@PyewacketteHow did this work out for you? I have multiple dogs, and while they don't come into the studio the hair still travels and considerable amounts still get in the clay (all shedding breeds). In order to get as much hair out I have to get the clay to a very wet state, almost the viscosity for slip casting, to pass it through a mesh screen. I have one larger sheet the hardiebacker board ~2x4'. I"m finding this process is painfully slow since I've gotten to the point where I need this reclaim to keep throwing. I need to get electrical hooked up for the kiln, so it's all practice, unless I happen to get a piece I feel very happy with. I am thinking about using one sheet to line between the backer board and the clay, then adding a second sheet to the top be able to put a new board on and flip the slab over. Removing the original board to dry and repeat.