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Lucybeaumont

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Posts posted by Lucybeaumont

  1. 4 hours ago, Roberta12 said:

    @Lucybeaumont Congratulations for being a problem solver!!  You will become more and more confident in your ability to repair and maintain your kiln as time goes on.  And if you get stuck, and it's after hours and you can't contact Skutt, these people on the forum are amazing!  @oldlady was very correct when she commented on the average electrician not knowing much about kilns.  By contacting a potter friend and the forum, you were able to get the job done.  Happy potting!

    Roberta

    thank you!!

  2. 4 hours ago, Min said:

    Since you have put new elements in your kiln it should be fired empty the first time to condition the elements. Conditioning the elements will help with their longevity. Skutt recommends firing empty to cone 04 at a medium speed to do this. Elements are expensive, anything to make them last longer is a good idea. 

    https://skutt.com/images/Top-5-ways-to-Extend-the-Life-of-your-Kiln-Elements.pdf

    Thanks, I didn't know this and will follow that advice!

     

  3. 5 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

    Sorry, just saw this. Hard to tell without a bit more of a step back context photo but the fact it works and matches the diagram  means you have it right. I am curious why some of the the insulators don’t push in flush though. No need to force them though if they are just too long, they only need to keep the bare element wire from touching any metal so they don’t have to be flush. Nice work! BTW your kiln should match the top drawing, the bottom drawing is for a three phase kiln. Both drawings have identical element configurations though.

    Thanks! I feel like some of my insulators weren't lining up properly with the holes which is why they aren't flush. I'll open it back up and see if I can get them in a bit better before I fire it. I didn't  know if my kiln was 1 phase or 3 phase, and actually have no idea what that means to be honest! But the drawings looked the same to me...so much to learn! Thank you for your help.

  4. 54 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said:

    I was wrong, those ring elements are wired in parallel. Sorry, too much in a rush! The relay has to work for just one of those elements to work. Likely bad connection or jumper between the two elements. Look very closely at the wiring or snap a few pictures of the connections as well as the jumper wires and post. Likely simple fix

    Bill and Neil, thank you! I think maybe by comparing my wires to the wiring diagram Bill shared I think I see the problem.  See attached snapshots for my wiring. It's hard to see so I marked in green where the wires are currently running (all connections are nice and snug). I think the one I drew in red is the mistake I need to fix (green shows how it is, red is where I think it should be instead). My friend helped me with that top one. We labeled wires as we went but between the two of us maybe we didn't put it back the same way it started. Would you guys agree?

    Screen Shot 2022-09-06 at 9.44.52 PM.png

    Top-Ring-Wiring.jpg

    Middle-Ring--wiring.jpg

    Bottom-Ring--Wiring.jpg

  5. Update. After replacing all the elements and running another test——I went from the top 4 rows not glowing (2 elements), to the top 2 rows not glowing (1 element). Boo!! I let it cool and checked all my connections which looked good to me and ran again with same results. I guess at least this confirms it’s not the relay. I’ll let it cool and look again in the morning but more suggestions welcome. Also I noticed the bottom element appears brighter than the rest? Not sure what that means...

    image0.jpeg

    09_06_22-Kiln-Test2.jpg

  6. 26 minutes ago, Jeff Longtin said:

    Just to give you a heads up Lucy, if I'm perceiving the image correctly, it would appear you have a 1227. The "12" referring to the number of bricks running around the kiln. Just do a quick count before you buy elements.  An element for a 1227 will be different than an element for a 1027.

    I can't recall if a 1227 has fuses but if it does those would be a simple fix. (50 amp fuses are about the thickness of your index finger and 2" long.) When an entire section is black its either a relay or a fuse.

     

     

    Thanks, Jeff! I do have the 1027 (was pretty sure but just ran out to look at what it is labeled with, and yep 1027).  The potter I bought the kiln from included a box of new elements with the sale and I'm happy to report I'm halfway through replacing them! She said they were due for replacement and that she had just replaced the relays. It does have a fuse but that appears fine. Fingers crossed it will all work again when I test it.

  7. 7 minutes ago, oldlady said:

    you will find that with several years of work into being a potter, they know many things about many different subjects.   the average electrician does not run into kilns in his/her daily business.  there is a lot more to working on a kiln than connecting wires.   if you hire one, get that name from several potters or businesses using kilns.

    you will also learn to keep your eyes open to everything.   what someone does not want anymore is possibly exactly what you need in your studio.  saving money on permanent items allows you more $ to buy clay and glaze materials.

    Great advice!

  8. Thanks everyone, for all of these great suggestions and for all the info/wisdom! I reached out to the potter who I bought the kiln from and she said she had replaced the relays just before she sold it to me. Since I've only fired it 7 times hopefully those are still ok, unless it's just a loose wire type of thing. She also had a box of new elements she had ordered but not yet installed as she thought that would likely need to happen soon. She included that box with the sale of the kiln so I had them all ready to go.

    A friend who runs a small community arts ceramics studio offered to come over and help and showed me how to replace the elements. Oldlady, I wish I had thought of replacing the brick at the same time, that is a good suggestion! Possibly I could go back and do that but because I had the elements in hand and not the brick it didn't occur to me.

    My friend walked me through how to change one element. I have decided to do them all since they were all installed at the same time and were equally old so I'll be tackling the rest this week. Fingers crossed when I plug it back in and test again it all glows nicely! I was feeling pretty lost a couple days ago but am more hopeful now...and once again have learned a few things. I did not realize being a potter meant being an electrician!

    Thanks again!

  9. Hi!

    I am a fairly new kiln owner, with a used Skutt 1027, set up in my small garage studio. The kiln is visually in great shape, purchased from the original owner who makes and sells her work and kept it well maintained. The elements don't have any visual breaks or bulges.

    I'm keeping a firing log and have now fired it 7 times, with 3 errors. So not the best track record but I'm learning!! First two were simple/dumb mistakes --  first, an electrical error bc my electrician had wired for 30 amps instead of 60, which we fixed. Second error was when the garage temp got over 100 degrees and kiln shut off. Which I didn't realize would happen but makes sense! After that, I fired a few more times successfully (both bisque and glaze to cone 5 + 6) by opening the garage door at the end of the firing, and putting up a bunch of fans. So fixed that too.

    Recently, however, I just got another error message, Error 1. I was doing a 06 bisque fire which I started at 11am, and expected would finish by midnight. At 2am however, it was still just at 1800 and temp seemed to be climbing painfully slow (especially as I wanted to go to bed!) ...and at 2:45am I saw the Error 1 code, reached at 1808 degrees. Kiln had been set: cone 06, 1 hour preheat, no hold, medium speed. I only had cone 06 witness cones (I know I should have had 07 and 05 but didn't!!) and they bent completely (one from the bottom shelf is completely melted over flat).
     
    From researching online I see that could mean bad relays, old elements, bad thermocouple, or low voltage. But knowing that doesn't exactly let me know where to start!  Do witness cones bending mean  it did get to temp? And thus it might be a thermocouple problem? Or is it just because it ran so long at a lower temp that it actually reached cone 06 (and beyond) since cones are time + temp factor?
     
    I went ahead as a first step and tried what Skutt recommended with running a Ramp + Hold Program (Seg 1, Rate 999 deg/hr, Temp 750) and then with protective glasses on opened each peep hold for a look. This was very very satisfying as I saw that the coils did not glow! Ah ha! The top 4 rows (is that one coil??) remained black. So I guess I change those? Any feedback, advice is much appreciated!
     
    Thank you!
     

    09_05_22-Kiln-Test.jpg

    Left_TopKiln-Right_BottomKiln.jpg

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