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About Lbegley

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    Santa Rosa, CA

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  1. I want to make a trailing slip recipe that calls for xx saggar clay, but don't want to buy the 50# bag when I only need 300 grams. Can I use Kentucky or Tennessee ball? Or is there a better substitute?
  2. This is true!!! I've found a lot of glazed donut and ham recipes when looking for a glaze recipe!
  3. Keep the wire tight and press down against the wheel head as you drag it across. I spin the wheel slowly as I do it. I cut plenty of crooked bottoms before realizing that I was inadvertently coming up as I moved the wire.
  4. Thanks Fred! I googled the frit and numbers and couldn't find anything!
  5. I used to plug and unplug my kiln all the time, and the plug/outlet did, in fact, fail. It began smoking, and the plastic melted and if I hadn't been right there, I think it might have caught fire. Scared the crap out of me! I was firing every week and unplugging and moving it each time, and it was a few years before the problem, so it did take a lot of wear and tear before it wore out.
  6. I'm cleaning out the chemical storage at the college I work at and found a bunch of old frits that I'm not familiar with. Frit 71, 550 3292 740 76 Anyone familiar with any of these? Know their modern equivalents? Whether or not they're leaded? Thanks!
  7. Update! I added 0.05% copper carb to my engobe base, and it seems to have worked! It doesn't effect the color fired and after a month it hasn't changed in the bottle (my control batch is green and stinky, so success!). The only bummer is that it is such a small percentage, that in order to measure it, I need to make a pretty large batch. I also tried vinegar which also worked to keep the engobe changing color, but changed the consistency, and the solids collected at the bottom.
  8. I have had several of those cress kilns with the thumbwheels and I like the design. Sounds like yours is stuck on one.... Try firing it at the top speed and see if the wheel moves at all,,,, you don't have to have anything in the kiln,,, you should know within an hour if it's progressing and can turn it off then. I have one that sticks once it gets to the 4 setting, so some times they do break in that way. You can still use it, you'll just need to manually turn the dial as you fire. I'm impatient and rush things too often, so I'm kind of an expert on cracked/blown up work, and im guessing those cracks have nothing to do with the kiln, but with putting the work in too wet. Next time wait until your work is bone dry. If you've been working in a community studio, maybe your lab tech has been letting your work dry more than you think before firing.
  9. I wonder if you could use a low expansion clay body and get away with firing it to maturity first, without the thermal shock being a problem? A friend of mine who does a lot of pit firing told me that the lower the bisque temp, the more color and smoke the ware takes on, so a fully vitrified piece may not be very pretty even if it did survive.
  10. Mine is 12x16 (kiln in a separate building) and it is more than enough space for my small pottery business. I've had larger studios and smaller studios and it seems like whatever space there is gets filled, but I do think there's something very potterly about a small, efficiently used space.
  11. Steven Hill just had a workshop at the college I lab tech for, and dh's schedule looks right to me (for bisqued work). I believe Steven does fire to cone 8, but only because he prefers cone 10 clay bodies. We have fired scm to cone 6 with good results.
  12. I once tried a standard glaze on a low expansion claybody and it was enough to reduce the whole pot to shards! Surprising that it would take a year to fail. Any thoughts on why that would be?
  13. I would love to visit Kohler, but I'm in CA.
  14. Whoa Denice! This is good to know! The thought of a toilet shooting glaze slivers is scary indeed!!!
  15. Right?!! You wouldn't expect a forum of ceramic artists to discourage experimenting and be so quick to suggest being satisfied with a factory's aesthetic!
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