akilspots

yeah luckily it will just be going in the garage so no issues with stairs or doorways. I've watched the unpacking video for the 2026 on l&l's site it looks like i'll definitely need to rent a pallet jack but not an engine hoist. clay-king has shipping costs included for freight with a lift gate and the ceramic shop it's 199 + 40 for the lift gate. any reason to believe this will end up way higher?

Between the L&L eQ2827-3 and eFL2026 what are the advantages beyond ease of loading for the front-loader? The e28T-3 looks nice too but the limit of cone 8 at 240v single phase is less than ideal. Is it really worth the thousands of dollars price difference for the front-loader? What are the downsides of the front-loader vs the top-loader? Also looks like the lead time for the front loaders is 2x the time for the top loader. I can afford either but maybe the extra money is better spent elsewhere? I do make larger pots sometimes, over 22" in height sometimes so the smaller height kilns wont work for me.

cutting cylinders in half really helped me with this when i was starting out throwing. i would sit down with a dozen or so balls of clay and throw a cylinder then cut it in half then throw the next one.

Doyle Lane https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/29/arts/design/doyle-lane-ceramics.html

hopefully my first kiln. want to get a l&l efl2026

application can be important also. it might be easier to get that effect with brushing vs dipping or spraying a glaze.

ive bought a bunch of clay and supplies from laguna directly never had any problems to speak of.

i've never really liked bisque chucks now i will just throw a quick chuck then torch it with one of those handheld bernzomatic torches till it's stiff enough to hold whatever bottle i'm trimming.

working on plates....

a good respirator for sure. i like a toilet brush for stirring buckets of glaze and a handheld immersion blender for mixing test batches. you'll want a scale that can measure 0.01 grams. definitely some sieves i have a small 80 mesh test sieve and some large 80, 100, 120 mesh ones whatever plastic containers/buckets make sense for the amount of glaze and work you make. I've stored glazes in all kinds of things take out containers, buckets, old plastic bottles. depends on how much glaze and how im using it. if you are going the completely self taught route some good books on glazes and glaze chemistry i like: the complete guide to mid-range glazes by john britt mastering cone 6 glazes by john hesselberth and ron roy stoneware glazes a systematic approach by ian currie and val cushing's handbook though i will say i was lucky the community studio i worked out of in nyc had a 4 week glaze making class that really helped me understand enough of the science behind glazes and making glazes that i felt much more comfortable testing glaze recipes.

have you tried the trick where you lay a piece of paper on the rim of the pot then cut and lift it off the bat? the paper creates a seal that helps it not warp

how many pots before you move from casual potter?

http://www.archiebrayclay.com/ceramic-materials-workshop-starter-kit/ this looks like a nice little starter kit if you just want to start exploring making your own glazes.

I've been doing some wood ash + clay + feldspar + frit biaxials lately. they have neen helpful when trying to discover new glazes.