neilestrick

Are these canisters you make? Are you hoping to cast the lids so they fit a base? More info, please.

30 minutes to get glowing Top and bottom elements are about 20% off, so that's definitely enough to be a problem since they have to work harder than the middle elements. Was the kiln on high for this test? If so, 30+ minutes is a really long time for the coils to glow, at least the top and bottom coils. The middle coils can take a lot longer.

It could be that it blew both fuses. I would start with using a meter to check the fuses.

No idea, but send them a message and ask. The may be willing to share their techniques.

Do you have a good ventilation system in the mixing area? If not, you shouldn't be using dry clay. Better to dry out the slop to the proper consistency and then run it through the mixer to even it out. If you just add ball clay or any other single clay to the mix, you're going to alter the formula, and eventually it'll have problems. Better to use a complete clay body so things stay in balance. If you know that the current clay body matures at cone 6, then you should be safe adding any similar cone 6 clay body to the mix. Test a small batch first, of course.

What firing schedule are you using? Flat pieces do not heat or cool evenly- the top heats up and cools down faster than the bottom- so you have to go slowly. Propping them up on stilts or clay wads or broken pieces of kiln shelves will definitely help, but also don't go too fast for the first couple hundred degrees, and go slowly through quartz inversion (the 525-575C range) during both heating and cooling.

Many glazes will change color when refired at lower temps, especially those that have a lot of color variation. The only way to know for sure if glaze will be affected is by trying it. A white or clear glaze is the safest way to go.

A simple low fire clear that usually works well is 90% Frit 3124 + 10% EPK.

I like that method because it's easy to make small adjustments based on results, especially as the thermocouples wear.

If the kiln is firing a little hot at all temps, then do a thermocouple offset, because that will effect all temps. If it's only firing hot at cone 6, then do a cone offset. The other option is to adjust your firing schedule. Based on what the cones are showing, I'd try cone 5 with a 5-10 minute hold. Personally, I'd do a TC offset as a last resort, as it tends to make some things better, some worse.

Is that just the little latch that holds the lid open a little bit? If so, totally unnecessary. If you need to prop the lid just use a piece of kiln brick.

Could the difference be in solubles, since one is washed and the other isn't? Just throwing out ideas...

Either wipe it off before it dries, or scrape it off and vacuum out the debris. Do it before you fire the kiln.

I would call Evenheat and see what they say. Chances are they'll work, or at least be close enough. If the element grooves don't line up perfectly, just file down the ends of the grooves to make them deeper so they meet the neighboring brick evenly.

Connections and wiring inside the wall mount box can all be standard stuff. All feeder wires going to the element should be insulated. Thermocouples need thermocouple wire, and should just be mounted to the side of the kiln outside the boxes. Kiln power cords should be rated for 105C, and if they use ring terminals they should be high temp. SEOW cords from McMaster work well. The ends in the control box should have insulating sleeves on them.

Wow, that's a lot! Equivalent to adding grog.

You cannot just add electrical/electronic components to a manual kiln box or they will run too hot. The baffles where the elements connect don't count. If there are individual boxes for each section of the kiln, they won't get enough air flow to keep the parts cool. You need a full length box to create a chimney effect, plus an insulated baffle. A better and easier option is to do a wall mount control box, or add a box to the front of one of the existing boxes, and put all the new components in there. All the wiring can run through a small hole between the boxes, and the parts will stay cooler. To fit a controller, 3 relays, and transformer you'll need at least an 8x8 box, but lay it all out on paper first and check what sort of depth you'll need for the relays and wiring to clear the back of the controller. https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/srml-wire?gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrfymBhCTARIsADXTabl61VpL7i4-VK60nm3aljg6auX_piB5YWRIW83rqTWm53jLlhLIyz4aAs5PEALw_wcB

It would likely sell better with the new elements, but I would try it without new ones first and see how it goes. Just be clear that it needs elements and have the price reflect that.

Looks like carbon to me, and that matches up with 600 degrees. The organic materials started to burn, but it didn't get hot enough to burn them out completely.

SRML wire will work just fine for element connections. It's affordable and works very well. For element feeds you will typically use 12ga or 10ga, depending on amperage draw. If you're using crimp connectors for the element connections, use hi-temp barrel connectors. Or you can also use copper set screw lugs, you just have to remove the offset tongue and use the connector part. I like non-crimping connectors because it allows you to take things apart if you need to. Terminal blocks are usually located behind an insulating baffle, or at the bottom of the box where it stays cool, so any block should work fine. Just make sure it can handle the amperage.

@Cirillo What does it need? Is it not working properly?

Buy the e18S-3 now. Get a bigger kiln in the future. You'll be happy to have both, plus you will soon realize how limiting the 18" wide kiln is (I have an e18T-3). Due to the small diameter shelf size (15") and the fact that you also need posts to hold up the next shelf, it's pretty bad for fitting anything but cylindrical pieces. If you make small condiment bowls you can fit a few on a shelf, but you'll still have a fair amount of wasted space. Small cereal bowls will fit 3 on a shelf, but soup bowls will only fit 2. It's great for mugs and small vases, though. Plus the Easy Fire is easier to work on than the Jupiter, and has fewer parts that could wear out. Call Rob Battey at Northwest Potters Supply when you're ready to order.

Sure thing. Just putting it out there in case you or someone else needed it.

I don't know what effect WD-40 will have on the recycled clay. Since it's a water repellent I imagine it could do some strange things if it was in a high enough concentration. I would try wedging and using some of it and see what it does. It'll burn out in the firing, so it only matters how it behaves during use.

If you need it for glazes, just about any kaolin will work. I've used Sapphire, grolleg, Tile 6, etc, without problems.