Jump to content

Babs

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,583

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Babs

  1. Babs
    Then it may well help Tina. Test and see
  2. Babs
    I think a pinch of Bentonite, your clay is almost there. Like some foods; a little tastes delicious, too much will kill you. I only mentioned vinegar because some very experienced potter mentioned it and I do use it in my throwing water, makes it creamy. I also use it when attaching handles , or slabs. The chemistry I leave to someone else. This is a caring community Tina, seen by the continued thought being given to trying to solve your problem.
  3. Babs
    Not me Callie, maybe @Bam2015 not a cat herder or kittens in basket keeper here either
  4. Babs
    Leave it to slake overnight , try adding a little vinegar, stir then put IN cloth to drain. Then wrap and leave. Wedge next day. May be different. If this is the clay which you wrapped around your finger, plasticity should not take much bentonite to sort. Worth a try.
  5. Babs
    1teaspoon aporox 30gms : 250 gms 12%. Quite a bit, was it mixed with water first? May need to rest it before wedging if you added the powder of bentonite.
  6. Babs
    Could dishwasher treatment have gradually affected the glazes?
  7. Babs
    https://www.instagram.com/p/CifWcsnugTo/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= This guy says some where some clay he works with us up to 50% sand! Have to change expectations, he is adapting how andxwhat he makes to suit the clay body imo
  8. Babs
    So the grit you have washed out is from clay powder you bought? Might be essential for hand building and sculputural forms. On the other comments, cracking as shown when rolling is quite common. Rolling stretched the ribbing over really helps with my clay.
  9. Babs
    Btw if you are sieving and washing, you msy be throwing away the fine particles you require for plasticity
  10. Babs
    That cracking at edges when rolling shortish, i.e. low plasticity clay body, is common. Releasing clay between rolls, rolling in different directions, rolling in a gentle manner can alleviate this. From your wedged slab, cut a slice close to the thickness you require, the less handling the better imo. i.e. less stretched Clay may need to be a little wetter. Try rolling on a canvas. Just thoughts.
  11. Babs
    When did you buy your previous batch? Walkers did change sites of quarrying. But issues stated above re vitrifying and glaze maturity hold water if you'll pardon my poor choice of phrase
  12. Babs
    If your clay was my recycled,or like a tonneI bought behaving like yours, I would add " fines" which can get lost after throwing pots. @glazenerd has a magic solution, and or add bentonite. But it is hard to judge without hand on it. If the board you are working on is very absorbent, your clay may need to be wetter , or you could roll on a canvas or a cloth..... Areyou releasing the clay from the board during the rolling process. Compress that surface by running ribs on it. You plate mold should be coated with a releasing agent, green soap, oil sprayed. It looks like it has caught on the rim where it has cracked on left hand side. This would stress your whole pot. Your plate may need slow drying. It is shrinking quite a lot. As glazenerd wrote, change one thing at a time. I think you are closing in on this, keep testing. Don't prejudge on the "Masters " .they got where they are because they observe and test ad infinitum. Don't have to pick up all they say just what is relevant to you. All blinkers off in this game
  13. Babs
    You are overthinking this I feel. you have a clay body . It is not the best to work with. You add a temper to it, or temper it by adding the substance of your choice, or want to test,. this substance is the temper which can be a grog or any other substance you find helps you to work with the clay body. Ceramics is difficult enough without getting bogged down in the semantics imo.
  14. Babs
    Stilts will work best at low to midfiring temps imo , a little grind will remove rough spots.depending on design you can get away with just the end of underside of handle and a tiny area of belly of spoon being coated with resist and rest glazed.
  15. Babs
    If you are going to glaze those pieces, no , as those pots won't accept the glaze after reaching the glaze temperature. Those pots could be painted.... Also as greenware you would have to alter the start of your glaze firing. So use schedule for a bisque firing until 600 deg Çelcius then fire as usual for a glaze firing
  16. Babs
    That blue can be problematic. I used to mix a bit of frit into it, you'd have to test, as it doesn't meld with the glaze at certain thicknesses
  17. Babs
    You may have unevenly dried greenware at the point of application and so inadvertently getting thick areas where the clay grabs the moist underglaze.. I spray the whole pot with a light mist of water before starting to apply underglaze. It looks like you are brushing in lots of directions. Perhaps applying a resist to your flowers would enable you to then brush across your plates and get a more even application.
  18. Babs
    That purpling crystals are somethkng I get with a glaze containing Magnesium Catbonate. The effect of different fluxes I guess. The cobalt may have been thicker there where it is occurring on your dish. Metallic usually comes grom overload of the metallic element in the underglaze The bleeding is Bit thicker glaze? Glaze and so underglaze moving at that temp?
  19. Babs
    And a slow candling and slower ramps at start of bisque firing
  20. Babs
    Had a sculptural piece of an old friend's, sat around for years , still exploded, damp inside. Explosion...water, cracking , another story or two.
  21. Babs
    Yeh, I haven't witnessed that. Water would be out of it before glaze melt and sealed off escape routes? Test and see I guess
  22. Babs
    I have a glaze which likes to form bubbles when stirred and unless I spray hairspray to dispel them, or fettle them, they will affect the surface of the glaze but not going to the internal frothing of a lava glaze
  23. Babs
    OP firing to cone 6 with cone 7 half way down. CKay maturing at 1250 d C so not a low fire imo. @Anna M are your pots glazed all over? Which pots did not leak? Could weigh totally dry pot, soak totallly overnight and weigh to test absorbency %
  24. Babs
    Crack the dried clay down as much as possible snd then slake. Sand is your prob. If already a handbuiling clay ,dnt need it. Coil abit of clay and bend the coil around your finger, shouldn't crack.
  25. Babs
    The mold ,steel bowl , needs to be coated with something to prevent clay from sticking to it as it dries. Strips of damp newspaper, plastic wrap, green thick dishwashing liquid etc. Oh! a hump mold need to get that clay off there asap. Clay shrinks, mold doesn't How did you wet the clay down? Was the clay previously thrown into pots? Can lose fine particles which make clay plastic. Make a slurry of clay leave for a couple of days, spread out on plaster board to dry , wedge and see if it is better. May need some bentonite to increase plasticity. Do you know what clay it is?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

  I accept