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Marcia Selsor

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Posts posted by Marcia Selsor

  1. As Liam says,  follow the reference codes on the mason Stain http://www.masoncolor.com/reference-guide.

    You need to use a slip base that accommodates which ever stain you are using AND use a glaze that will enhance the color. Mason stains are expensive. You need to use them according to Mason's guidelines. One size does NOT fit all. Val Cushing base for low temperature underglaze use was

    Frit 3134  33%, EPK 33%, silica 33%  then add stain 10-25% depending on the intensity of the stain and the hue you want.  This is for low fire 06-04.  You could possible re-formulate for what ever temperature you are looking for.

     

    Marcia

  2. 7 minutes ago, Marcia Selsor said:

    Mark, I answered this days ago. Must not have saved it correctly. I got the shelves from Cedar heights Clay. They had a cancellation on a big order a few years ago.

    Marcia

     

     

    7 minutes ago, Marcia Selsor said:

     

    On 10/4/2019 at 11:07 PM, Mark C. said:

    Tell me aboub that shelve with the holes in it?? what temps does it take and wheres it from? what size is it as well?

    Mark

     

     

  3. On 8/18/2019 at 9:00 PM, jrgpots said:

    l found the Frank Goydos frit substitution chart.  It is 30 pages long.  Can I post a pdf file here? If so, I need some instructions to do so.   

    If others are interested in the chart,  pm me and we can exchange e-mails so i can send the pdf file to you.  The chart is quite extensive

     

    Jed

    Franks sent me his 32 page Frits html that doesn't work. I also put it into a PDF. Not allowed. We need a tech person to let it get posted. Frank says enjoy!

    Marcia

  4. Liam said 

    "I'd say the biggest risk involved with barium for the Potter is inhalation of vapor during firing and inhalation of the raw material, this is a direct pathway to our internal organs.  The occupational safety limit for airborne barium oxide is under half a milligram per cubic meter which is an extremely tiny amount, wear your respirator!"

    Dave Shaner attributes his decline to the fumes from his kiln. Hans Coper who also used manganese extensively, declined so much towards the end that he needed a rope alone the walk to his studio. Nervous system deterioration.

    Marcia

     
  5. It isn't something mentioned in everyday conversation. You need to be proactive in researching what you are using. You can check individual materials MSDS sheets. Check some of the Black clays for example for their manganese content. When I was teaching at the university, we had to eliminate Barium from the studio back in the 80s.

    https://www.hazwastehelp.org/ArtHazards/ceramics.aspx

    https://emergency.cdc.gov/agent/barium/casedef.asp

    We do know that Hans Coper and Dave Shaner were both  poisoned by Manganese in their work and eventually died from it.

    . It is good to be aware of your materials. Heavy metals accumulate in the body and over time can take their toll.

     

    Marcia

  6. Dannon Rhudy suggested decades ago on Clayart, to tie jean legs win a knot, hang on a clothes line and fill with slop and Ley it dry. 

    I try to keep up with my porcelain slop and add some of Glaze Nerd's additive to restore plasticity. (recipe is the studio)Then I dry pn plaster slabs or in large plaster bowl forms.

    I also like to use the wet tee shirt soaking system for softening hard clay (found on youtube)  and the softening of hard bagged pugged clay by putting the bag in a 5 gallon buckets, add a 1/2 cup od water and tie the bag shut and let it sit for a day or two. If it needs more water, do it again.

    I live in Montana , far away from most suppliers. Shipping is expensive. It pays to manage the clay and recycling. Shipping costs are equal to the cost of clay.

    Marcia

  7. Thanks Babs. Hi Linda. I have used the San Ildefonso process in teaching many years ago. Basically, you burnish the pot . Then , before bisque firing, paint the patterns over the smooth finish with a type of terra sig. Ball clay based TS works.   It looks like your clay is a little rough. What are you using?

    If you could find a tempered earthenware that is smooth but has fine grog, you would get a smoother surface. The pot on the right looks smoother but has a little color showing. Bisque to ^08.  Do you have access to dried cow pies (frisbee quality manure)? We used this in some large pits intermixed with sawdust. Smothered with sawdust towards the top of the pit . Once the flame appears at the top, we covered with more sawdust and sheet metal or corrugated metal and let it smoke and cool. 

    Hope this helps.

    Marcia

  8. My Botanist friend took a group on a nature hike  along Fox Creek and up a mountain. Most of the group had a good background in Botany. I was along for the wildlife observance and new material for patterns of leaves and plants. My old Faux celadon is at a good stage. I had made my friend a watercolor brush holder and glazed it with my old bucket of glaze which seemed to be at a perfect consistency. I carved that vase before my Obvara class in July. I am going to carve some mugs for NCECA and elsewhere.

    Thanks for the compliment. I'm enjoying my time back in Montana. 

    Best wishes to you Pres.

    Marcia

  9. I brought in my herbs two days ago before the frost hit. My plants sit in my window. I can also see the ski runs on Red Lodge Mountain.

    My cats and dogs come in and visit regularly. My studio is in a overside 2 car garage of the laundry room. It is very quiet here and I work in peace. I am posting a photo of a hanging pot drying to stein up and continue to form. It is a funny technique but I have saved some larger porcelain pots this way. It takes a few hours. I continue working on other pots while a clapping one regains it's strength!

    marcia

     

    hangingpot.jpg

  10. Liam's answer is very similar to mine. I am pursuing another rabbit hole...soluble salts. I began working in clay 53 years ago. I started working with ceramic sagger about 20 years ago. Then foil saggers using soluble salts. Since May 2018 I have been focused on Soluble saltsand exploring low fire temperature and varying firing temperatures and processes. I also explore Obvara in warmer weather as a fun workshop topic. I have a copy of Arne Ase's watercolor on Porcelain which discusses using soluble salts in higher temperatures. It is a good resource for my exploration . BUT he is not environmentally aware that these hazadous chemicals can no longer be tossed down the drain. I am experimenting with salt that is used to melt sidewalk ice...both Magnesium Chloride and calcium chloride neither of which is considered toxic.

    Marcia

  11. I have been working with Coleman Porcelain to use in Obvara as well as sagger and soluble salts. This is not fired to maturity. Porousity is needed for the absorption in the lower temperature.I have been testing numerous ^6 porcelains to use in this process also. I have Linsay Porcelain ^6 from Archie Bray  Photo#1  and a ^6 Plainsman Translucent porcelain for actually firing to ^6. #2 was fired yesterday using soluble salts.I fire soluble salts from 1250F to 1700 depending on the colors I am trying to get.

     

    carvedporcelainSM.jpg

    Selsor_M_Mermaid's Breath_Porcelain3 copy.jpg

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