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Marcia Selsor

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Everything posted by Marcia Selsor

  1. I use Liam's method. If it is in a 5 gallon bucket, I use hot water, soak it and as soon as soft enough, I use a jiffy mixer bit on my drill, and grind it up. When I moved back to Montana from Texas a few years ago, I tried to dry up all my glazes before putting them on a truck. Marcia
  2. Pres, first what makes me think "I love this" is usually a good comfortable handle and the texture of a glaze. BUT your comment about keeping bugs out o honey reminded me of a honey pot I saw in a old museum in Pontevedra, Spain. There was a ridge in the shoulder of the pot for water creating a mote . It kept ants out o the honey because they wouldn't cross the water barrier. I thought it was brilliant. I loved the ingenuity of the pot. Marcia
  3. The old original slab mats had no texture on one side. After 15 years or so they got a little brittle. The new ones have a texture that I don't like but are much smoother than anything else. I use them for my large slabs for raku. Marcia
  4. I have had my 30" Bailey slab roller for 17 years.I had one of their first ones in the late 1980s. Then a wider home made one in the late 1990s. The duel rollers work the best IMO. Enjoy your new power tool. Marcia
  5. Upcoming workshop in San Antonio at Roadrunner Ceramics Supply on Jan. 18-19, 2019 Limited to 16 attendees.
  6. I would have said possible stress when trimming. Clay remembers. If the lip is thin compared to the weight of the body, it could have stressed the lip. Marcia
  7. 1 degree F today. Plan to decorate slabs today since they are due at the gallery on Sat. Need to snow blow the path to the kiln shed to unload to unload the kiln.

     

     

  8. I make large slabs and use a 24" sheetrock squeegee to smooth the surface. you can get whatever size works for you. I use a latex resist for my drawings, so the surface should be smooth to allow the latex to peel off easily. I also like the smooth look. Marcia
  9. I may have to spray raku glaze inside. Will build a plastic tent on my drying rack. Low tonight will be MINUS 3 F. Too early for this to happen! 16" of snow on Sunday and 7-9 inches expected tonight. Got a bisque firing done yesterday.
  10. I like that exhaust filter. I could use one. I use a vapor mask for the chlorides and sulphates I am using. Marcia
  11. Thank you. There are many others represented in the book and Lindsay does an excellent job in describing how to fire many alternative techniques, pit barrel, raku as well as wood-fired kilns. In addition there are sections on recipes for clay, slips and glazes. Marcia
  12. This book has just been released and focuses on kiln firing fir Raku, Pit, and Barrel plus high fire wood kilns. The galleries are full of beautiful work by many ceramic artists. I am excited to be included along with many others. One piece of mine is an Obvara pot with sodium silicate crackle surface and the other in an installation of terra cotta paper clay books pit fired during my residency at Archie Bray. I used the train kiln and a pit. The installation is a memorial piece for 9/11. Marcia
  13. Just received y copy of Mastering Kilns and Firing. I am happy to be included in this new book by Lindsay Oesterritter..

  14. back in 1971 I was a caretaker on a religious estate.I had a pottery set up in a cabin and I mixed clay every morning in the basement of the mansion. There was an abandoned greenhouse with lots of earthenware flowerpots. I lined the pots with a little piece of newspaper over the drain hole and cheese cloth inside the whole pot. I had shelves of ware boards facing the boiler lined with these flower pots. The would dry to workable consistency in 3 days.I just kept a steady pipeline of clay coming from these flower pot. My slop was in a 50 gallon garbage can. This method makes the most plastic clay. - Slop too workable. I bought a used Peter Pugger around 1980. It was badly rusted with big chips of rust coming out in the clay. They went to stainless. Today I have an old Soldner mixer formerly belonging to Tom Coleman, then his apprentice. I got a nice de-airing Bailey pug mill at NCECA reduced as a floor model. (when I drove it back to Montana from Portland , I had it wrapped in newspaper and started the heater in my van several time at night to keep it from freezing on the way home. It was full of demo clay) you can get good deals at NCECA (National Council on Education of Ceramic Arts) the trade show. Coming to Richmond, Va march 25th to 28th of March in Richmond, Va. Great trade show is part of it. Tool vendors from all over. Marcia
  15. 18th Pennsylvania Dutch Pottery https://www.berksmontnews.com/opinion/a-look-back-in-history-earthenware-of-early-pa-dutch/article_6144ea74-f43f-11e8-ad4b-331f958de9c6.html http://selftaughtgenius.org/reads/pennsylvania-german-pottery
  16. I have built 2 tile presses from Frank Giogini's Tile book design. One for me and one for the classroom. They are especially good for pressed plaster molds with incised designs. Marcia
  17. Finished writing my article for PMI. Pieces selling well and I need to send more shipments to galleries. Back to throwing.

    Marcia

     

    1. glazenerd

      glazenerd

      Congrats on the article. I know you spent many many hours researching and developing.

    2. Marcia Selsor

      Marcia Selsor

      almost as much time trying to send it thru dropbox!!!

       

       

  18. I put 2 foot rings on porcelain dinner plates. Probably serves the same function as Liam's button. I also trim when the clay is a bit stiff. Cut off the plate. I place a soft piece foam the keep the center from slumping if the clay is soft. Sandwich the plate with another bat and flip. Put it on the wheel trim and start drying. I flip the plates several times during the drying and dry them in a bakers rack wrapped with plastic. In Texas it was humid. In Montana it is dry. All depends on your studio atmosphere. Avoid drafts. Marcia
  19. I add alumina hydrate to my wax resist for bottoms of porcelain AND flanges on lids. I put about a cup in a jar and stir in about a tablespoon of alumina hydrate. Porcelain can flux enough to "pluck" or stick to shelves and where bare clay touches bare clay as in flanges. Alumina in the wax prevents that. Marcia
  20. As Liam says, follow the reference codes on the mason Stain http://www.masoncolor.com/reference-guide. You need to use a slip base that accommodates which ever stain you are using AND use a glaze that will enhance the color. Mason stains are expensive. You need to use them according to Mason's guidelines. One size does NOT fit all. Val Cushing base for low temperature underglaze use was Frit 3134 33%, EPK 33%, silica 33% then add stain 10-25% depending on the intensity of the stain and the hue you want. This is for low fire 06-04. You could possible re-formulate for what ever temperature you are looking for. Marcia
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