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Coloring Wax Resists?


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Working on developing a cost-time effiective way to use a complicated technique on smaller pieces, re "Developing a display friendly body of work" thread.

 

Does anyone know about coloring wax resist like materials so that the color remains after firing?

 

I know I can buy black, but what about other colors?

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Do you want the color to be solid or will you be pleased with whatever happens?

 

The waxes do not always dry smoothly or fire away evenly so you might get some really

interesting patterns. I have not heard of anyone who does this but I would start with a

series of test tiles using underglazes and also mason stains at various %.

 

Sounds like a fun exploration. Let us know what you find out.

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Sounds like a great idea. If you use oxides or carbonates; cobalt, iron, copper etc., you might want to grind them to a finer mesh so they'll mix more evenly with you wax. A ball mill or mortar and pestil should do well.

 

If you apply them over a glaze you may find that they may be food safe.

 

Let us know of your results.

 

Stuart

Keep Potting

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been doing this by combining black mason stain with cold wax. It's a good way to separate glazes and I'm attaching a couple of pics. I'm very interested in your results as well. There is actually a name for this technique but can't remember it right now.

 

Kathy Ransom

http://throughfire.ca/

 

 

Some call this Wax Inlay but it is actually a variation of Cuerda Seca.

 

Johanna

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I've been doing this by combining black mason stain with cold wax. It's a good way to separate glazes and I'm attaching a couple of pics. I'm very interested in your results as well. There is actually a name for this technique but can't remember it right now.

 

Kathy Ransom

http://throughfire.ca/

 

 

 

I see that the "throughfire" site is in Greek, i take it that you are also greek ? Do you live in the states or Greece? I am greek-american, my parents from the peleponese. Spent some time in Hania, Crete working with/for a potter there. Just wanted to say yasou.

 

Chris

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I'm afraid I'm not Greek Chris, just learning to use Soho Launch! It shows up in english on Firefox but I had to switch to Explorer for another program and just found out about my error. I was wondering what I was getting so learning it is Greek should help me fix it, I hope.

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I've been reading a post in Clayart by James Freeman who is mixing oxides/stains in mineral spirits -- he says the mineral spirits keep the oxides/stains in suspension better than water. Not a wax resist, but another approach to think about.

 

 

 

Freeman used mineral oil, not mineral spirits. My apolgies.

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I recently tried an experiment by simply mixing red iron oxide and Mason vanadium stain into separate batches of cold water-based wax - concentrations of stain to wax was rather high to get a good density of color, but I didn't record specific percentages. Painted a flower design on a pot and then dipped once in glaze; fired to Cone 10 reduction.

 

The resists didn't resist the glaze as well as hoped, but that was probably due to something other than the stain additions. The red iron oxide resist worked beautifully - just as I had hoped - but the vanadium was a long shot at high fire and simply went gray. Will definitely be doing this again with other stains and oxides suited to cone ten. See the result of my first experiment here:

post-1160-1298355161832_thumb.jpg

post-1160-12983552409003_thumb.jpg

post-1160-1298355161832_thumb.jpg

post-1160-12983552409003_thumb.jpg

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