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Everything posted by centered

  1. I will be setting up an electric kiln in a shed. Does it need to have a cement floor? The sheds I have been looking at have wooden floors. What could be done to make it fire safe.
  2. Thanks everyone for the info you provided me with.
  3. Hello, After reading much information on the web and on this forum I am still confused as to what respirator to us for spraying glaze, mixing glazes and using ferric chloride. I just bought a mask at Home Depot that is by MSA Safety Works It says multi-purpose meets OSHA and NIOSH P100. it says for applying pesticides, working near asbestos and spraying paint. The removable cartridge has a number 4410 on it. Since I am not spraying pesticides, paint or working with asbestos I am not sure if this is a safe mask to use. I also wonder if it is safe to spray outdoors in a box without a vent. I would appreciate any information. Thanks, Centered
  4. Wow, thanks,the heated bucket sounds great. I will check it out.
  5. How about... pick everything up by the bottom and not the lid. you never know if the last person screwed the lid on tight. red iron oxide stains EVERYTHING!
  6. If there is nice still weather, is it possible to spray outdoors safely without a spray booth and just wear a good respirator?
  7. I am currently setting up shop in Maine. I have many concerns about how to handle the cold. I realize wax resist can freeze and not be useful once thawed. What about glaze in buckets and bags of clay? The cost of heating the area when I am not in it would be too expensive. I am wondering what other cold weather potters do in this situation.
  8. I will be setting up my studio in my friends barn. He is paying the electric bill, but I want to pay my part. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how much it cost to run an electric kiln about 8 hours for a cone 04 bisque firing and a cone 6 glaze firing. I still do not have a kiln yet, although an approximate of the inside dimensions will be a round kiln 24 inches inside with a height of around 20 inches. not sure of the cubic feet yet. Thanks.
  9. Thanks for your suggestions. ordered it today.
  10. I am starting up a new studio and I am in need of a great book on electric kilns, which would include safety issues, and vents and how to decide on a kiln. Are there any sites that sell only pottery books? Thanks for any information you can provide. Happy potting.
  11. Marcia, Doesn't the sprayer pressure blow the paper stencil off the piece?
  12. Thanks for your replies. I will definitely try it and expect some breakage. I will be happy as long as I can create with clay. I will also keep my eyes open for some type of class to take.
  13. I was wondering if there is any alternative type of firing that doesn't require a bisque firing first. I am moving and will be without a kiln for quite some time. I will have a webber grill and a fire pit in the ground. Can I use a raku type clay and do a pit firing without bisqueing first or would everything crack? Thanks for any information you have.
  14. Well, this solution won't help you this time around but may help in the future. When I am firing in a studio where other people load the kiln, I usually glue (elmers glue) my lid in place so that it will not move around while they are loading it in the kiln. I have had good luck with the freezer method but I slowly place the bottom of the piece in hot water then quickly take it out, then keep doing that until it heats up the rim but not the lid. Sloooooowwwly. I never had any cracking from thermal shock. I wouldn't do this to low fired ware.
  15. John, You are a wealth of info. I am using the zen portable raku kiln. The 4 inch spyhole is directly across from the gas coming into the kiln. I was told to place my pyrometer into that spyhole and NOT plug it with fiber(which I had been doing for the first 3 firings. The fiber held it in place, now it just balances in the hole. I was told that the open hole creates some sort of downdraft. Now I am thinking that this may not be the best place for the pyrometer. the only other hole is on top of the kiln and that gets too hot i am guessing. At this point I am pulling my ware after it has bubbled and smoothed out but I don't like constantly checking it since I was told we should not look through the hole as it could damage the retina and with welding glasses on I cannot see much of anything. When I open the kiln most of the ware looks burnt and not glowing as much as I have seen from other kilns and was wondering if I should leave it in for a bit longer? My concern is that I don't want the clay (cone 05) to melt. Maybe I should use cone 10 while I figure this out. Thank you for responding to my never ending questions. Debi
  16. Oh, I love the education I am getting here...thanks
  17. My pyrometer is an analog and says type K on the digital face. The company I purchased it from told me not to adjust it.I guess that depends on the elevation you are at? I realize that I sound ignorant, because I'm not even sure what part is called the thermocouple. There is a ceramic piece around what I call the" probe" that goes into the spyhole. I place it as close to the ware as possible about 4-5 inches into the kiln. There is a square part on the bottom of this probe with 2 holes and wires going into the probe. This gets hot. Next time I fire I will check to see if the wire near the meter is hot.
  18. The manufacturer did not suggest anything. I will try using the cones again. The last time they did not bend. The manufacturer said that cones don't always work well when a kiln is being fired this quickly. I will call him again today. Thanks.
  19. will you be bisque firing first to 04 or 06, then glaze firing to cone 6?
  20. In my class we have to make a "cookie" of clay that is 1/4" bigger than the foot of our pot. We glue them to the bottom of our piece to catch any glaze that runs. these cookies can be used over and over if no glaze runs on them. If the cookie is too big, it is rejected until we get a smaller size. Maybe that is something you could have your students do.
  21. Hello everyone. We had a pretty successful raku firing today. We did many test and it seems that our pyrometer could be off by 400 degrees. Has anyone else experienced this? When I called the company I purchased it from, they said they had never had one that didn't register correctly. It seems that at 1800 the glazes are not hot at all, by 2000 they start to bubble, and by 2250 degrees they smooth out. When we opened the kiln all the glazes looked burnt, not glowing (daytime), but once out of the combustibles they were beautiful.
  22. Sparky, Thanks for your information, Could you explaine the Negative fit check for me? Not familiar with it. thanks
  23. Oh I am so happy I can use soldate 60 to throw with. thanks for your help.
  24. Hello, You have all been so wonderful and helpfull with your responses, Thank You. I am wondering which clay would be best to use, a low fire raku clay or a cone 10 stoneware clay that will not fully vitrify when I raku fire it. I want to hand build and throw with the same clay. I am going down to Aardvark clay co. ,so if anyone has any suggestions on their clay, that would be helpful. I was thinking maybe a soldate 30 or 60-not sure if you can throw with the "30". or B-mix with sand. I have used Long Beach with success but would like a white clay body. Thanks again, your ideas are appreciated.
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