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Best Time To Buy A Wheel?


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I have done lots of Brent diagnose work over the years since I bought my 1st Brent from Brent himself back in 69 in LA.

If the wheel does not shut off or does not have enough RPMs take the bottom of foot pedal cover off-you will see a blue and red plastic circle- straight slot small screwdriver will adjust these. They control the low end and high end RPM. I think they are called a potentiometer.

So from my investigation of the foot pedals it looks like the 2 screws (red/blue) are limiting or trim potentiometer.  So they set the min voltage and max voltage that the larger vertical pot, the one that gets moved with the linkage attached to the foot pedal, runs through.  

 

for instance lets say the large vertical pot runs 1-10.

 

I think those vertical pots get worn out especially in the low range(2-3),  so adjusting the low screw helps because you move the start point (min voltage for the motor) up to number 4 on the large pot and outside the worn area were things are "wonky"

 

Best i can tell thats the technical answer for "the wheel does weird things at low speeds, i think the foot pedal is bad" 

 

Sending to Brent to inspect would likely mean they just look at the sweep of the large pot on a scope or DMM and if they find "funky" results they just replace that pot.

 

 

With wheels I've sent in for repair, it's about a 50/50 split between pedal assemblies and control boards being the culprit. It's even been both on the same wheel! Some symptoms are related to both so it's tough to diagnose.

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They never repair the foot pedal Pot juts screw in a new one-I have had more of these wear out than curcuit boards (my experience)

All you can do is play with the blue and red knobs the long travel pot is non-adjustable.

My curcuit board issues have been wheel will not turn off or not start (always checkslo-blow fuze 1st)

You can swap another foot pedal assembly yourself from another wheel and if that cures issues you know its that not a curcuit board.

Mark

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Guest JBaymore

Sending to Brent to inspect would likely mean they just look at the sweep of the large pot on a scope or DMM and if they find "funky" results they just replace that pot.

 

Those linear in-line potentiometers are relatively cheap parts.  If you are any kind of a "soldering iron jockey", just order one from Mouser or Parts Express and replace it yourself.  Usually an easy job...even for a 'beginner' at thiskind of thing. 

 

If you don't know the pot value, either look on the side of the assembly... or pop it out, and check with a multi-meter the min and max showing on the R.  Likely the total min and total max are still close values....... it will be the "in-between" area that will likely show the wear.  Ditto the trim pots.  Or call the manufacturer.  But if it is under warranty and you start mucking aound.... you'll void the warrantee.

 

I happen to also be a long term general class ham radio guy (KA1HLI)...... so doing things like fixing circult boards is not all that difficult for me :) .

 

best,

 

........................john

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Anyways I wanted to chime in because I never really understood that the skipping (not staying off when pedal is pressed down, so it skips on low) might be something fixable? Once in a blue moon it won't do that.  But normally  I just switch the wheel on and off all the time because it won't remain in the stopped position. I have the cxc that i am referring to. 

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