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Best Time To Buy A Wheel?


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#21 Nancy S.

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 11:42 AM

Oh, yeah. If the 20% off is the lowest price you can find, go for it. I bought a TS Prodigy about 5 years ago -- after months of searching and researching -- and I learned two things about TS wheels:

 

1, they hardly ever go on sale.

2, they are hardly ever available used.

 

I got mine from BigCeramicStore because that was the best price AND they had free shipping. So also make sure you're getting free shipping with the deal; if not, that may negate your 20% off (and then some)!



#22 Mark C.

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 12:57 PM

I have done lots of Brent diagnose work over the years since I bought my 1st Brent from Brent himself back in 69 in LA.

If the wheel does not shut off or does not have enough RPMs take the bottom of foot pedal cover off-you will see a blue and red plastic circle- straight slot small screwdriver will adjust these. They control the low end and high end RPM. I think they are called a potentiometer.

There is a realationship with the off point(wheel stops) and the high rpm point so one will affect the other. If wheel will not stop turning this is the usual cure. I a blue moon its the curcuit board in the controller (located in on off switch box)If the foot pedal will not stop the wheel from turning its most likely the curciut board. Each of these parts seem to be about $75 - 100$ and as Neil says if you want they will diagnose for free if you send them the parts. Its rare the wheel bearing go out as well as motor bruches. If you suspect motor bearings them send the motor and they will inspect and send you back a new motor fo a fee.The guy who knows the most now at Amaco/Brent is Bob-very nice guy.

I throw on a CXC and a C trim on  A and have another B for stoneware work as well as an extra B right now. My original model C has a formica flay deck with no plastic ridges.Its orginal foot pedal they stopped making years ago so I upgraded to the newer types as well as swap the head to a 14 inch and have put a new motor on it as I worn the old one out in 20 years-at that time I had to trade out all pullies and belts-also a new controller. Now the old deck made from 1/4 inch plate steel is the only original part left.

I'm a real Brent fan but I also use mine a lot every week.

Brent has been great over the years often sending me free parts especially back in the day-I sent them a whole motor controller set up completely covered in clay a few years ago-Bob Called me and said he likes to see there stuff used and mine was diffently that-he sent back new foot pedal for free and charged me for new curcuit board.

I usually keep a few parts on hand to make my own repairs now.

My next wheel of choice is the Thomas Stuarts-I have liked what I have seen-now that Skutt bought them out I do not know how the quaility is now-Neil has some of the orginals and like them-not sure if he has the newer Skutt ones?

I do not like the high built in splash pan but if you learn on them or are in a teaching situation then this will not be a an issue . I think it more what you are used to. I trim on a Brent with no splash pan as I want the trimmings to fly away.

Mark

Mark


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#23 schmism

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 01:42 PM

Thanks for the heads up on sending parts to Brent to have them look at.

 

The studio has 14 wheels of which i think 10 are Brent.  so i have plenty of other wheels to swap parts around on to see if my issue moves (swap a foot pedal, issue moves, then its the foot pedal)



#24 neilestrick

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 01:42 PM

As far as I know, Skutt has not made any changes to the TS wheels since they bought them. I don't have any of the newer models, but I know people who have bought them recently and they say they are the same.

 

The distance between the splash pan and wheel head is greater on the TS wheels than Brent. For people used to a Brent it can feel like a mile. Personally, I always disliked the Brent pan being so close to the wheel head, so I never used the pan when I worked on a Brent. It was always too close to do much good when trimming, and hit my arm in the wrong spot when throwing. With the TS, the distance makes it much more comfortable for me, and the gap is big enough to actually hold some trimmings. It's nice to have a splash pan to keep the mess to a minimum. You get used to whatever you have, though.


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#25 schmism

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 01:59 PM

I have done lots of Brent diagnose work over the years since I bought my 1st Brent from Brent himself back in 69 in LA.

If the wheel does not shut off or does not have enough RPMs take the bottom of foot pedal cover off-you will see a blue and red plastic circle- straight slot small screwdriver will adjust these. They control the low end and high end RPM. I think they are called a potentiometer.

So from my investigation of the foot pedals it looks like the 2 screws (red/blue) are limiting or trim potentiometer.  So they set the min voltage and max voltage that the larger vertical pot, the one that gets moved with the linkage attached to the foot pedal, runs through.  

 

for instance lets say the large vertical pot runs 1-10.

 

I think those vertical pots get worn out especially in the low range(2-3),  so adjusting the low screw helps because you move the start point (min voltage for the motor) up to number 4 on the large pot and outside the worn area were things are "wonky"

 

Best i can tell thats the technical answer for "the wheel does weird things at low speeds, i think the foot pedal is bad" 

 

Sending to Brent to inspect would likely mean they just look at the sweep of the large pot on a scope or DMM and if they find "funky" results they just replace that pot.



#26 neilestrick

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 02:20 PM

 

I have done lots of Brent diagnose work over the years since I bought my 1st Brent from Brent himself back in 69 in LA.

If the wheel does not shut off or does not have enough RPMs take the bottom of foot pedal cover off-you will see a blue and red plastic circle- straight slot small screwdriver will adjust these. They control the low end and high end RPM. I think they are called a potentiometer.

So from my investigation of the foot pedals it looks like the 2 screws (red/blue) are limiting or trim potentiometer.  So they set the min voltage and max voltage that the larger vertical pot, the one that gets moved with the linkage attached to the foot pedal, runs through.  

 

for instance lets say the large vertical pot runs 1-10.

 

I think those vertical pots get worn out especially in the low range(2-3),  so adjusting the low screw helps because you move the start point (min voltage for the motor) up to number 4 on the large pot and outside the worn area were things are "wonky"

 

Best i can tell thats the technical answer for "the wheel does weird things at low speeds, i think the foot pedal is bad" 

 

Sending to Brent to inspect would likely mean they just look at the sweep of the large pot on a scope or DMM and if they find "funky" results they just replace that pot.

 

 

With wheels I've sent in for repair, it's about a 50/50 split between pedal assemblies and control boards being the culprit. It's even been both on the same wheel! Some symptoms are related to both so it's tough to diagnose.


Neil Estrick
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L&L Kilns Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com

neil@neilestrickgallery.com


#27 Mark C.

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 02:31 PM

They never repair the foot pedal Pot juts screw in a new one-I have had more of these wear out than curcuit boards (my experience)

All you can do is play with the blue and red knobs the long travel pot is non-adjustable.

My curcuit board issues have been wheel will not turn off or not start (always checkslo-blow fuze 1st)

You can swap another foot pedal assembly yourself from another wheel and if that cures issues you know its that not a curcuit board.

Mark


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www.liscomhillpottery.com

#28 DBPottery

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 10:52 AM

Also check Bennett supply

http://www.bennettpottery.com

Call around as discounts can be had most always

Mark

I agree about Bennett Pottery! That is where I bought my Brent wheel from 10 yrs ago and I saved hundreds compared to other stores. However, I would certainly shop around. 



#29 JBaymore

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 11:25 AM

Sending to Brent to inspect would likely mean they just look at the sweep of the large pot on a scope or DMM and if they find "funky" results they just replace that pot.

 

Those linear in-line potentiometers are relatively cheap parts.  If you are any kind of a "soldering iron jockey", just order one from Mouser or Parts Express and replace it yourself.  Usually an easy job...even for a 'beginner' at thiskind of thing. 

 

If you don't know the pot value, either look on the side of the assembly... or pop it out, and check with a multi-meter the min and max showing on the R.  Likely the total min and total max are still close values....... it will be the "in-between" area that will likely show the wear.  Ditto the trim pots.  Or call the manufacturer.  But if it is under warranty and you start mucking aound.... you'll void the warrantee.

 

I happen to also be a long term general class ham radio guy (KA1HLI)...... so doing things like fixing circult boards is not all that difficult for me :) .

 

best,

 

........................john


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#30 Benzine

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 12:34 PM

LIST OF THINGS JOHN DOESN'T KNOW

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
"Anything worth believing, is worth questioning"

#31 JBaymore

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 01:54 PM

LIST OF THINGS JOHN DOESN'T KNOW

1. TONS OF CRAP!!!!!!!
 


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#32 Benzine

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 02:06 PM

Well yes, maybe you can't name the artists in Billboards top ten, but when it comes to life skills, that doesn't really rank.
"Anything worth believing, is worth questioning"

#33 Rebekah Krieger

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 03:12 PM

LIST OF THINGS JOHN DOESN'T KNOW

1. TONS OF CRAP!!!!!!!
 

 …. unrelated to ceramics. ;) 


Learning On my Kick wheel with my vintage Paragon (from the late 1960's)

#34 Rebekah Krieger

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 03:14 PM

Anyways I wanted to chime in because I never really understood that the skipping (not staying off when pedal is pressed down, so it skips on low) might be something fixable? Once in a blue moon it won't do that.  But normally  I just switch the wheel on and off all the time because it won't remain in the stopped position. I have the cxc that i am referring to. 


Learning On my Kick wheel with my vintage Paragon (from the late 1960's)




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