lincron Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I need a resist for a new glazing process I'm trying, but don't have any wax resist on hand. Other than melting paraffin wax with oil, does anyone know, can I use a polyurethane varnish or acrylic sealer? I have heard of using shellac, but I don't have any of that either. I fire to cone 6 in an electric kiln. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I've heard of people using all sorts of things, even floor wax or polyurethane. Make sure your kiln is vented, and probably run a test first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincron Posted March 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I've heard of people using all sorts of things, even floor wax or polyurethane. Make sure your kiln is vented, and probably run a test first. I'll try the polyurethane then, as it will brush on easily. Thanks so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo_heff Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I've heard of people using all sorts of things, even floor wax or polyurethane. Make sure your kiln is vented, and probably run a test first. I'll try the polyurethane then, as it will brush on easily. Thanks so much! That is going to stink when it burns off !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted March 8, 2013 Report Share Posted March 8, 2013 I got a little jar of water based wood sealer at Home depot. It is white and dries clear, so I added drops of red food coloring. It works well and was $3.96. It takes a couple of coats. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJR Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 When I worked in England, we used liquid furniture polish. When I worked at a pottery in Scotland, we used a type of rubber cement called Copydex. You could pull it off after you glazed with a needle tool.A buddy of mine used beaswax in an electric fry pan. Lots of potters and encaustic artists burned down their studios using hot wax. I like good old wax resist-no smell, and it's safe. TJR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted March 9, 2013 Report Share Posted March 9, 2013 When I worked in England, we used liquid furniture polish. When I worked at a pottery in Scotland, we used a type of rubber cement called Copydex. You could pull it off after you glazed with a needle tool.A buddy of mine used beaswax in an electric fry pan. Lots of potters and encaustic artists burned down their studios using hot wax. I like good old wax resist-no smell, and it's safe. TJR. I have used shellac, polymer medium, wax resist medium, melted paraffin, crayons drawn on, furniture polish, and even waxed cord I found in an old wood shop. When using regular wax resist you do have to be careful, as there are some brands that make a resist for bare clay, and a separate resist for over glaze.All of these materials have different characteristics like cleanness of line, thick/thin response, bleed, and pressure response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmehrian Posted September 24, 2019 Report Share Posted September 24, 2019 I am new to this and trying to do ceramic painting at home. I would like to paint something that can be used to eat from after. What type of paint do you recommend and is there anything that I can spray on the paint to cut down the drying time (don't want to wait 24 hours to air dry) so that way I can bake it in the oven sooner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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