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MFP

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  1. Why don't you just buy soft brick and make a new lid instead of trying to mortar together broken brick? You can cut the soft brick easily with a key hole saw....I know because I built an arch that way. You already have a "blueprint" of how to put the new brick together.
  2. Yes this was quite crazy. I wanted to order my materials from Clay Art Center because it was closest to me and I noted they did not have Spudomene...so I just ordered it from Clay King and it came packaged as Spudomene. I had submitted a list to CAC of what I wanted....and lithium carbonate was in the list ---this lithosil is what I got.....I finally got an answer that it was 999 parts LiCO3 and one part silica.. Apparently Clay King doesn't give a rip....they have both Spudomene and LiCO3 listed as such. The increasing ability of people to make things unnecessarily complicated is most vexing.
  3. He finally got back to me a few minutes ago....999 parts Lithium Carbonate and 1 part silica. Geez....it's not like I was asking something that was a national secret! I tried Laguna Frost today and really liked it....cone 6 porcelain....smooth but not sticky, nice to throw. Will see how it fires. Got six glaze tests weighed up....and a bunch more stuff in containers. EPK sure looks weird now....it's tan....used to be kind of cream colored.
  4. Does this reply from Clay Art Center make any sense to you? "Lith o sil is 99% lithium, 1% silica. The manufacturer of lithium and Spodumene has made it against the rules to sell raw lithium or spodumene, which is why we make the blended product. It allows us to still sell a material we otherwise couldn’t sell."
  5. I sent them an email to be sure. Now the tedious process of 100 gram glaze tests begins. Have to admit that it's not my favorite activity. I also noticed that one of the unknown substances I was trying to identify is actually cream colored. Looking at the barium carbonate I ordered, they both have that tendency to form into little loose balls. The ignition volume loss will tell the story. Interestingly, calcium carbonate loses 43 percent but barium carbonate looses nothing. I am thinking my gritty feeling #5 may be bone ash....it's the only other thing that feels gritty like that. I found a coffee can of white stuff....no clue what it is. It was in with the oxides....and I wouldn't have packed it in with the oxides if it was not related. Betting it's tin, titanium or zircopax. That will make three zircopax tests (sigh). ( old, new, unknown). Mark C said one of the five things I sent him was zircopax. So, have to test to make sure. If I didn;'t have what amounts to 50 pounds of #5, I would have given this up a while ago. I am pretty sure #1 and 3 are dolomite and calcium carb. But the ignition loss will be interesting.
  6. OK...just looked at the list I gave them of what I wanted to order...and Lithium Carb was a quarter pound at about 20 bucks a pound. Got five pounds of Spudomene. So it must be lithium carb.....why do they call it that.....it's confusing!!
  7. Hmmmm......I must have thought it was lithium carbonate when I ordered it. I ordered spodumene by name. I don't think a quarter pound is going to do much! LOL
  8. Thanks Denice....I was only going to put it on the exterior. That is where the damage is. The inside is in really good shape. I don't know if I should be concerned. The elements heat but I didn't wait around for them to turn red...I hope they are OK. Doing a bisque soon. So will find out! Fortunately elements for it are dirt cheap. BTW---I am with you on the B mix...it's crankier than porcelain for crying out loud! I don't like a clay that is constantly trying to un-center itself. That New Zealand porcelain I tried has the same nice smooth texture but throws far better.
  9. Thanks Neil. I got it directly from Olympic. One ding is kind of deep....about a 1/4 inch but I was not going to try to fill it. Bill already warned me about the lid heat loss--so I will keep that in mind when firing it.
  10. Usually took 12 hours to get there.....I am not an early riser. If I had to fire overnight for some reason....I had "stops" where I would set a concrete block that I would sit on and go to sleep...and when the temperature got to a certain temp....it would wake me up....I would check on where things were....do whatever was needed and then place the block at the next "stop" and go back to sleep You guys are just so high tech now. There is a manual crystal procedure in one of the archives on here for an electric kiln like mine.
  11. Thanks Bill! Fortunately, it is only the lid. The interior is pristine. With all the new procedures, just wanted to make sure there was not something I didn't know. So much has changed.
  12. I have to admit that looking at these new firing schedules gives me the willies. I used to pre-heat overnight! The kiln would be at about 010 when I got up in the morning....but it was a 9 inch soft brick kiln with four burners. I would only have two on low for the pre-heat.
  13. The little Olympic electric kiln I recently bought has some dings in the top surface of the lid. Any particular cautions about putting a new layer of refractory cement on the lid?
  14. That's the method we used at the Art Center....but we were only dealing with one clay. We had a pit under the sinks to catch all the slip in two 55 gallon drums. When those would finally get full of thick slurry...we would have a plaster bat drying marathon going on. Best handle clay ever. I cast myself a 60 pound plaster bat for the same purpose now---in fact one of the first things I did when setting up the studio so it would be dry enough by now to work. .
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