Mamborobin Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I bought an old Shimpo RK-2 wheel a while ago for my garage and have a hard time centering on it. I don't have that problem on the Bailey wheel I have in our studio. I thought it was just me until I realized that the pins on the Shimpo are different distances from the edge of the head causing the bats to look like they're moving back and forth. So even though bats fit just fine, a portion of the bat actually hangs over the head farther than the rest of the bat. I imagine the obvious solution would be to not use a bat and throw directly on the head, which I'm uncomfortable doing, but to fix this, should I drill new pin holes and make sure each hole is exactly the same distance from the edge of the wheel head? Or does it matter? I've never done this and I'm a bit leery about drilling into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Go ahead and drill new holes. I did so in the Fall, for all my classroom wheels, one of which was a similar Shimpo. Said wheel had pins, but they were not the right distance for my bats, and they were too small as well. I made a template out of paper, to get the measurements right, then used a punch to create something for the drill bit to grab. From there I started with a small bit, and gradually increased the size. It worked out perfectly. Just make sure you avoid the vertical supports underneath the wheel head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mamborobin Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Gee thanks for the QUICK response. Never thought about using a punch first, but you're right. The drill bit would probably slip. Now the big trick is getting the head off. I don't think it's been removed since 1972 or whenever it was put together. Should be fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Spend the time getting this perfectly lined up and punched before drilling. Look at the bottom to avoid the vertical supports (ribs) before punching. Make a template as mentioned. Make sure the holes are centered. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benzine Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I didn't remove the head on any of the wheels, when I added the pin holes. As long as you can reach under to loosen and tighten the wingnuts, you don't need to remove the head. Some people here, don't actually secure the pins with the nuts, opting to just leave them loose. I tried said approach, and didn't like it, mainly because when I pulled off the bats, the pins came with it. One last tip, make sure you are very diligent about cleaning up the shavings. You wouldn't want have a piece get in the throwing slop, then find it later, with your hands and/or fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I never use wing nuts as I use pins to no pins back and forth so much. I have never had the need to use a wing nut on a wheel head? I have been called a wing nut if that counts Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mamborobin Posted May 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 You guys are funny! Thanks for the tips, wing nuts, etc!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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