ForagerPotter Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 We are in the process of converting our garage into a clay studio and future apartment. I am an avid amateur potter and realized that having a kiln of my own would be great, rather than relying on my community studio. I have been doing some research into the requirements for installing a kiln and would love some advice on this topic. It seems that much of the electrical requirements are specific to the kiln one has. I don't have one and probably won't buy one for a few months at least. What specific electrical requirements would most home kilns require? What size breakers and what gauge wire would be most common? Now's the time to set this up while we have electricians on site and open walls. Also, can we use the venting already installed for the future kitchen or would a separate venting system be required. Thanks for any input! Heidi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 (edited) Hi Heidi, Welcome to the Forum! Good questions. For a start, verify what type of service you have. Typical home electric is single phase 240v (we have higher voltage at our new house, ~252v). Modern homes often have 200 amp service (or more), however, smaller homes may still get 100 amp. Your choices may be limited, depending. For electrical requirements, a good start might be perusing new kiln listings*. Note the relationship between size (in cubic feet) and amperage required. Note also the breaker and wire requirements. For example, my 6.7 cubic foot kiln runs on 240v (single phase), draws 48 amps, and for a reasonable run (less than fifty feet, just), #6 wire on a 60 amp breaker. Consider, you may wish to add a kiln, or get a bigger one in future? You can wire for a larger kiln, but use an appropriate breaker for your current kiln. Venting, essential topic, in my opinion. ...to be continued... for the sun shines now, I'm heading out! Added: Yesterday's outside adventure in the sunshine was glorious! Today we have gouts of rain, heh, good day to fire the kiln, swim, read, maybe throw some pots. Powered kiln vent, I'm definitely a fan, and recommend; it's good for the elements and removes a lot of fumes from the area. Many kiln manufacturers offer them. I put together mine - but should have sprung for a better fan - it works though! Overhead powered hood, I'm also a fan, and recommend, for the fumes that the powered kiln fan doesn't get, and the excess heat. The Heat The bigger the kiln, the more heat and fumes. I put together a 400 cfm overhead hood for my previous setup. It was loud, but I could be in the Studio while the kiln was firing. *Skutt, L&L, Bailey/Cone Art, Olympic, Paragon, etc.; the sizes and amperages somewhat similar... Skutt, L&L, and Cone Art have easy to read specs on their websites (I haven't looked at the others) Edited February 4 by Hulk added: on venting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denice Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 On the subject of venting is your kiln going to be located near a outside wall. In my kiln room I have a dual Skutt exhaust system that works on two kilns and exhaust through the wall. My test kiln and doesn't need one. It is located close to a window, I also have a exhaust fan in the ceiling to clear out some heat that is vented outside. Even with all of these exhaust features I usually keep the door open to my studio to let some heat escape. Sometimes you can still get some odor from the firing but having a room reduces the odor. This may be important because of the apartment in the same area. I connected kiln duct work to a dryer vent in a basement years ago, It had a baffle on it to close off the dryer vent when the kiln was running. It only had a 3ft run from the baffle to the house. Denice Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 3 Report Share Posted February 3 (edited) Just a few things to suggest to start with. I would suggest laying out as best you can where the kiln will go. There likely is only one logical best place that you will place it. If you can do that, then roughing a circuit in for a future kiln and ensuring it Is 3/4” pipe (raceway) rough opening will allow you to pull the appropriate size wires when you get most any kiln. Now, where the kiln will go - probably adjacent to an outside wall, most likely in a corner so there is decent access to ventilation outdoors. You should not combine systems, this one is for the kiln. You should decide if you intend to remove the excess heat as well as all the fumes or a portion of the fumes as in counterflow systems you will likely need electric at or near the kiln for the ventilation accessories you have chosen as well. So maybe another rough electric opening in pipe to be pulled at a later date. Maybe another 3/4” rough opening so if you decide on full ventilation just about any wire size ought to fit. depending on your ventilation choice above you will likely need to plan on makeup air from outdoors as well. So just some things to start to think of Edited February 4 by Bill Kielb Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForagerPotter Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 We added a 100 amp service in the garage. I will put the kiln in the corner with easy access to an outside wall and close to a window. In addition to a dedicated circuit for the kiln itself, there are normal outlets which I assume can power any venting system. Am I thinking about that right? My current plan is to talk to Seattle Pottery Supply and pick their brains about the electrical requirements for a home kiln as well as do some online research. I will have to decide if it makes sense to buy a new kiln or a used one. That's the rub as far as figuring out the specifics of the amperage. I think it would make sense to install a 6 gauge wire to the box, I could then adjust at the breaker for the specific kiln. I would like to buy a used kiln which may also include a venting system ( as well as shelves and accessories). It seems that a powered kiln vent is a good idea with an overhead vent as a good add on. So at this stage of construction I will ask the electricians to install #6 wire instead of the #10. Am I forgetting anything? Hulk and Bill Kielb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForagerPotter Posted February 4 Author Report Share Posted February 4 This is my first time on this forum and I am deeply appreciative of the thoughtful advice so far. Thank you! Hulk and Bill Kielb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 Kilns 7 cubic feet and smaller will need a 60 amp breaker at most, with an actual draw of 48 amps at most. 10 cubic foot kilns, if you want it rated to cone 10 (which you do if you're glaze firing to cone 5/6) will need an 80 amp breaker, with an actual draw of 63 amps. That's a really big kiln for most home studios, though. 100 amp service will be great, and leave you plenty of power for running lights, wheels, etc. Kiln vents run on a typical 120 volt household circuit. The only thing that may max out the system is heating, depending on how that's done. Depending on the layout, you may not need to run the heat while the kiln is on. Hulk and Bill Kielb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 Outlets at counter level ...where your counters are (or will be) can be handy. A second outlet where your wheel goes might be handy. Integrated lighting - never, err, hardly ever need dusting - setting your baseline wash(es) of light in the space. I'm liking the round flat led units - cut the hole, wire it up, set the light temp, done. Lots of light at low (looong teerm) cost. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 (edited) 23 hours ago, ForagerPotter said: with an overhead vent as a good add on. So at this stage of construction I will ask the electricians to install #6 wire instead of the #10. Am I forgetting anything? I like all the ideas. For anything a bit uncertain I favor a rough opening done in pipe so it can be pulled later but the number 6 takes care of that. I would suggest terminate in a 4X4 box for working room for now. Cover plate typical below. (Duplex drywall ring typical) a single gang box would be tough to work in when you install the receptacle. Edited February 5 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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