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Spray Booth Setup: Ventilation Fan


Lauren F

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I recently set up and installed a new Laguna Pro-V spray booth with a (also new) 1720 CFM Dayton 4C659 tubeaxial fan (included from Laguna). The fan is ventilated outdoors via simple ductwork. However, when I turn the fan on, it is barely sucking air. Generally, these machines are quite powerful, so something seems off. Although I believe it's installed correctly, I suspect that it may be upside down, despite clear instructions on the fan and in the manual on how to orient it. 

Does anyone with this spray booth have any guidance on which way to orient the fan or if there is possibly something else wrong? I am hopeful that the fan is not defective and there is some quick fix that I just overlooked.

Attached is a current and installation photo of the fan as well as a diagram from the manual.

-Lauren

 

 

68625338552__8B3B49F1-4CDC-48F3-A74C-997

70145594180__F7212B8E-0A9C-45D0-B287-70C

 

70145611519__1F0D1C81-8928-46C9-B003-FA2

 

 

Edited by Lauren F
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  • Lauren F changed the title to Spray Booth Setup: Ventilation Fan

First idea that hits me, which model exhaust is yours and is it set up for 115 or 230v? I agree 1700 + cfm will seem to suck the chrome off a bumper.

The air gets sucked out of the spray booth so if all else fails if the motor is blowing in, you will need to flip it but I believe you have it right. Motor drive side is the inlet. Now to use this you will need to let fresh air into the  house somewhere. A lot of it!

Edited by Bill Kielb
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I flipped the fan over today and it works perfectly. Wonder why the manual indicates otherwise…?

I would still be curious if anyone else has encountered this issue. The next idea I had was to reverse the direction of the fan, which seems possible. Has anyone tried this?

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It looks like a fairly straight bladed fan, so if rotation is wrong then it will blow in the opposite direction. Sort of reversible like a ceiling fan, check rotation for sure as your original mounting should have been fine. Just from the pictures, looking straight on at the BELT END of the fan I think it would rotate counter clockwise. Looking at the BLADED ENDI believe it should rotate clockwise.

The fan should have a rotation arrow on it somewhere.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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Many of the images I'm finding indicate the fan is designed to blow (hence turn) in one direction.
The fan label has a flow direction arrow.

Lauren captured the three phase reversing instructions in the third image (the single phase instructions, however, are truncated).
I'm not finding a matching doc; the one I did find addresses rotation direction thus:

dayton.jpg.12d47a20e5b808f5cf61e8bd4e750755.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

What did you use to transition from the fan to the ducts? I just got my pro V and  went to the hvac store and they had no idea. Looks like you have some sort of tape or insulation?  Also did you flip the fan after the photos above? I see the arrow on the fan but it looks like that is wrong. Any advice is much appreciated! 

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Hi TahoeBlue, Welcome to the Forum!
LaurenF hasn't been on the Forum since November last.
You might try sending a message (which will be delivered via email); navigate to their profile page, select "message"...

Looks like Lauren had found something - perhaps a sheet metal flange? - that bolts up, per the second image.
...12" fan, 13-1/2 in bolt circle diameter, search string suggestion, "12" round duct flange"

...maybe
duct flanges | McMaster-Carr
or
12" Flowtite Plain Duct Fitting at Menards®

Gotta go to root canal appointment; I'd rather look up more flanges tho'!

 

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6 hours ago, Tahoebluepottery99 said:

What did you use to transition from the fan to the ducts?

All very available HVAC ductwork parts, available stuff -
For that fan You should be able to use a 12” flanged take off, 12” hard pipe duct and or 12” flex duct to isolate vibration or as needed. Steel duct attachment would be 3 screws for round rigid, worm drive clamp is easy and goof proof for the flex. Seal all seams with metalic duct tape UL181- P for rigid or UL181-FX for flex connections. Duct sealant (brush applied) is more permanent than tape but taking it apart for maintenance a bit of a pain. Advise adding a decent backdraft damper and well thought out discharge louver. Cheapest flanged take off I could spot below:

The take off from the original OP appears to be a bit adapted for use (might be the photo), connection shown below, typical.

IMG_4304.jpeg

Edited by Bill Kielb
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