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Underglazed bottoms


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Hello! 
I would like to know if anyone has experience with either Alumina hydrate or wadding to prevent underglaze from sticking to kiln shelves. 
I have mugs that have underglaze  on the bottom, I tested one of the colors I use frequently and it stuck to the shelf a little, so I am either thinking to add alumina to wax and brush it on, sprinkle dry alumina on the shelf or make some small wadding balls.

My concern about the dry alumina is the chance that  it might fall onto glazed surfaces below. Any thoughts on the best method?  
 

Thanks! 7454AA9B-89EF-4CFB-8D2D-D826B0475C84.jpeg.89b427263a37f149229c984403130afe.jpeg

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For soda, salt and wood firings wadding works great to keep the pots from sticking to the shelves. Don't see why it wouldn't work for your mugs also if the wads went on areas without the fluxy underglaze. 3 wads total, 1 on the base under the handle for stability then 2 more around the edges. If the underglaze is fluxing enough to stick to the shelf then I would be concerned that the alumina kiln wash or just dry alumina hydrate will stick to the underglaze which would make a sandpaper rough surface.

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Thanks, Min! I was worried about that. I’ll try the wadding and see how it goes

 

and to Bill, I think the cookie would stick as well. I don’t trim all of my mugs with a foot. These in particular are flat on the bottom so I could curve the image around. 

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If you made the bottom of the pot slightly concave, leaving a kind of foot ring, you could paint as you are now, and then lightly rub the foot ring so it was almost clean, leaving a ghost of the drawing.  Then it might not stick.

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I put ug on the bottom of a number of my pieces and I haven't had problems with sticking.  But....I use cookies under them, cookies that are kilnwashed.  And I use the alumina and was combo on the bottoms of porcelain to prevent plucking.  The alumina sands off after firing. 

Roberta

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