Kiln Identification

[Hartney]

Hello! I just bought this as my first kiln to learn on- I learned to drive in an old army issue Jeep, it seems a trend. I am having trouble identifying it, looking for old manuals, etc. Any and all suggestions are welcome! I tried google photo search w no luck, as well. Thanks!

[Dick White]

Is there an electrical rating plate attached to the side of the control box? If so, show a picture of that.

[Hartney]

This is the only plate-located in top of controls and one the side, as well.

[Dick White]

Ok, not getting any hits on that name either, but you've already been there done that. Next picture request - a clearer view of the knobs on the left side of the control tower. In lieu of an original owners manual, we may have to give you generic instructions based on how such controls typically work. Also, is there a Dawson Kiln Sitter on this kiln?

[Hartney]

I appreciate your help! There are no other  gauges or knobs-

[Mark C.]

Looks t be an early Edison Model. I think Tomas made this right after the lightbulb stuff. The Manuels where hand written with quill pens and most did not make this long thru time on scroll paper.

On a more solid note at 20 amps you need a 30 amp circuit breaker with #10 wire to have the 25% saftey factor. Do not use a 20 amp#12 wire curcuit. looks like two elements on each switch

220 V seems pretty straight forward. The switches must turn to the right always as there are two Ons and two Offs. I would not turn them backwards without looking at them closer inside.

[neilestrick]

No sitter, no low-med-hi. I guess the next question is whether those switches do the same thing in both On positions. I would assume so since they're not labeled otherwise. So you've got 3 elements or 3 pairs of elements, and a switch turns each one/pair on or off. Not unusual in these old kilns. You have to be very careful, though, because it's going to heat up fast. You work must be totally dry and not too thick or you risk blowing it up. 

Load the kiln, prop the lid open a couple inches and put the bottom switch on for an hour or two. Then turn the middle switch on and wait another hour. Then close the lid and wait another hour. Then turn the top switch on.

Since you don't have a Kiln Sitter, you'll have to use witness cones on the shelves and watch for them to drop so you know when to turn off the kiln. Use kiln safety glasses when looking in the kiln (#5 welding goggles).

This would be a good candidate to hook up to a wall mounted digital control system, since it has very poor heat control and no safety shutoff.

Did it come with a stand? If not, put it up on cinder blocks, with the openings in the block on the side so you get air flow through them.

Since it maxes out at cone 6, you're only going to get to cone 6 when the elements are in perfect condition. That means about 25-35 firings from a set of elements. This kiln is really made for low-fire work, maybe up to cone 2/3. You could call Euclids.com and see if they can make elements that will make it a cone 10 kiln which will work well for cone 6, but it'll draw more amperage and you'll have to make sure all the wiring in the kiln and power cord are appropriate for the higher amperage draw. Euclids will be able to tell you what the draw would be.

As it is currently set up, it'll draw about 22 amps on 240 volt power. Code says that kilns must be on a breaker that is 25% greater than the draw, so that means it'll need a 30 amp circuit.

[Hartney]

Thanks so much!! I’ll post if anything ever comes out of the old bird