yedrow Posted May 26, 2012 Report Share Posted May 26, 2012 Anyone know much about these? I got one used last weekend and it seems to have either the ground wires fused or be 220. If it is 220 then it is an odd wiring system since I don't see a common, just case ground and lines 1 and 2. But, I've never seen ground wires fused before either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 27, 2012 Report Share Posted May 27, 2012 Can you post a photo of the inside wiring??? Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yedrow Posted May 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 It has been a long day that included taking apart a generator carburetor that didn't get cleaned out when last I used it. I'll have you some pics tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 That controller should operate on 24 volts. Go HERE and check out page 29. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yedrow Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Ack, we bought a building and it is just plain work! Sorry for being a day late. Below are the pictures Mark. Neil, thanks for the link. I used that to get some grasp of the controller, but it doesn't show the fuse system in enough detail. I haven't been able to find a better schematic. The board is stepped down, probably as you said, to 24v. But line in is what I'm worried about. It appears to have fuses for both the power in and common. There is a buss with two sockets and off to the side a separate socket for case ground. I'm betting that the buss is for line in and common, and that it is 110. From there the wires go to relays, each of which have 6 blade terminals (two unused on each), along with two at the bottom for control voltage. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 L1 and L2 appear to be both hot legs of a 240 hookup with a ground lug on case-thats my guess and its only a guess. I would call orton or Paragon about this as the paragon manual shows the board and transformer You could also send this photo or link this thread to Arnold Harold from Paragon who is on this site a lot as well -look him up in the members area and e-mail him this question and mention this thread with photos.He is the expert in this area. Before hooking this up you need to know incoming voltage to these two lugs-the ground is a ground and does not factor in-In any old school kiln (like my two electrics) there is no common (white wire) only two hots All the old 3 wire plugs are this way. Only the newer kilns (for you young pups) have 4 wire plugs or are hard wired with 4 wires-one ground one common and two hots. Â One last note in the schematics they show 4 different transformers/voltages. Your transformer has the voltage needed I think written on top. The photo shows this text but I cannot make it out. This may answer what incoming voltage is needed. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Contact the manufacturer and get a wiring diagram for your specific kiln model. Hate to be guessing here and get it wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yedrow Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Great advice Mark and Niel. I feel kind of silly for not thinking of that on my own. I always expect these things to be easy and they never are, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxBeekeeper Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 The power coming into your house is 220v. It has two feeds, 110v each. When you have a 110v circuit you use only one side of the feed and the neutral wire connects into a grounded circuit on the pole. Â A 220v circuit uses both feeds, 110v + 110v = 220v. The alternating current goes back and forth between the two. No neutral actually required (except for safety). So looking at your picture you have two feeds coming in hot, each spreads out to a set of fuses. Both sides are 'hot'. Â The thin wires are your 24v circuits. Â It is throwing you off because older standards or below 30 amps you can use the two hots and a ground wire. Newer standards are 2 hots, a neutral and a ground if it is above 30 amps or is continuous use (which a kiln is). If you follow the neutral and ground back to your distribution panel I think you may even find they connect to the same bar anyway, but the ground gives you the extra protection of separating the case grounding from the internal system grounding. Â I'm just a do-it-yourselfer and not an electrician so don't trust me :-). Whatever you do put a test meter on everything before you touch it or turn it on. Â Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 It is throwing you off because older standards or below 30 amps you can use the two hots and a ground wire. Newer standards are 2 hots, a neutral and a ground if it is above 30 amps or is continuous use (which a kiln is). Â Â Most kilns, new or old, use a 3 wire system for single phase kilns- 2 hots and a ground. It's rare that they use a neutral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan530 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I Use this controller on a kiln that is also used for glass fusing. What i am intersted in is tips to program midrange bisque firnings. I generally use a Laguna WSO clay body. I usually fire a cone 05 or 06. I want to get tips to get bisque firings, I have had a few blow ups, but more often than not, there was a lot of cracking. I am used to the old style Duncan Kilns with the pyrometric bar and timer. setting cycles for the new controller is making me feel a little lost in the woods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 There's nothing wrong with the pre-programmed firing cycles in the controller. They work great for most things. If you're getting blow ups, it's because the pieces aren't dry enough, or they are too thick for the speed of the firing during the first couple hundred degrees. Cracking probably has nothing to do with the firing schedule, but rather with construction technique or clay selection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yedrow Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Ditto to what Neil said, your ware is probably too wet. I haven't run a cycle on the Orton yet, but the Bartletts I've used have a delay timer on them that will allow you to slowly boil off the water before passing 212 deg. I strongly suspect the Orton will allow you to put in a couple hours delay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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