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Help! Cuerda Seca "dry line"


Logan E

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I am desperate for help. I am beginning cuerda seca tilework, but am screen printing to create accurate line work. I cannot find a recipe for wax resist anywhere, much less specifically for screen printing. It cannot have too much wax in it as it will ruin the screens, but enough to resist glaze. It must be a thicker consistency also. Does anyone know what I need to create this mixture?

cuerda seca1.jpg

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ok there are a couple of products around in the screen printing world. one is a permanent resist  one is water soluble.

The water soluble does last a number of uses...Been years since I used these products but any screen printing suppliers would have them.. I found on textiles the break down process of resist actually was v. attractive. an aside here.

 

also it isnt/ wasn't hugely expensive to get your screens made up by some commercial screenprinting places..

Just a thought.

product names not coming to the brain.

Can iron out was resist though...protect the lungs.

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Logan:

i do not use resist in any of my work, so I cannot offer you any advice. I only know about soy wax resist because a friend use to work in a silk screen/ printing shop. Here is a link, I am sure there any many outlets for it.

https://www.quiltingcompany.com/store/surface-design-with-silk-screens-soy-wax-resist-and-fabric-manipulation-with-ginny-eckley-video-download?utm_source=googleshop&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=channeladvisor&CAWELAID=120344480000014199

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I think your question is:  What material can be screen printed on to ceramic tiles, will produce crisp lines, repel a water based glaze slurry applied by hand, and burnout during the firing.  
  
Does this "resist" material have to carry a black stain as shown in the photograph?

I too have very little experience with screen printing.  However: 
  
I have used white school glue as glaze resist. It does require a few minutes for the bead to dry.  The industrial version of the same material is often thicker (higher viscosity).  
If the resist must carry a black stain, the addition of the stain material will increase the viscosity of the glue; the increase might enough to work just like screen printing ink. Since I have never tried mixing stain into the glue, I do not know if the glue will interfere with the "staining" function of the stain during or after the burnout. 

Most of the time, school grade glue will washout from cotton and polyester fabrics with water soaking and detergent; I expect that the glue would also washout from the printing screen.    I wash out my glue brushes without any problem with warm water and detergent/soap  - usually 10-15 minutes after using the brushes.  

LT

 

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I was reading as you are Min but I asked OP if the resist was for screen or clay and the OP replied screen which led me to answer re resists applied to screen...

not sure how the bead effect would work resist screened onto clay as the resist would be flattened.

still, I think I am misreading this.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 7 months later...

3 parts Stand oil (stand oil is linseed oil that has been polymerized by heating. It is thicker than linseed oil so better for screen printing,

3 part manganese dioxide (black colorant- toxic, use respirator),

1 part borax (flux)

CMC powder as needed to thicken.

Be sure your borax and CMC powder is free of lumps before adding to mixture. More stand oil can be added if it gets too thick. 

Clean up screen with mineral spirts after finished if you plan to reuse screen again. The black color won't come completely off the screen but you want to make sure there is no medium dried on your design for future use. 

 

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