vastglassylake

stuff in progress or about to be. Trying to finish up the smaller bits, still have a lot. Vase needs glaze, as yet no clue what it wants. the thing stuffed w/ paper towels is my first attempt at a drawer sachet for personal use, but I'd like to make an optionally hanging version to sell and I'm planting some lavender, old roses and scented geraniums partly for this purpose. the rest are mainly impression makers. Note the one with cassius slip over it, stroke of inspiration, now I can see what my rollers are without picking them up and examining them. I'd like to sell some of those also as I enjoy the carving and inventing designs. 
The results of the mermaid plate. She looks like she forgot to wear her waterproof mascara...also the rock was supposed to be mossy layers of green, turned to mud instead. Her tail came out beautifully, my drawing is quite nice if I do say so, and I love my idea of using king kelp as a border even though the underglaze colors didn't quite work. "...by sea-girls wreathed in seaweed red and brown..." -I like enough about this I might try it again using the same drawing. Low fire white clay w/ sifted unwashed sand from the dunes nearby. seemed to work well except for an unfortunate iron spot too close to her face, anywhere else it would have been fine. Half of this idea was to come up with some cooking safe serving ware, so I thought I'd photo it before I did a bake test. 

Many years ago, one of the students in the college class lost the bottom nut from the extruder die holder while cleaning it in the cleanup bucket in the sink. Irritating, but not the end of the world to have to go to the hardware store for a replacement nut. We periodically scoop the sludge from the cleanup bucket into the main recycle barrel, and when that barrel is full, I pug the recycle in to a proprietary mix that is so proprietary that even I don't know what I put in the pugged clay logs. Despite the unknown mix, it's usually nice enough to work with for class demos and experimental practice work. About a year and a half later, I was making a batch of Empty Bowls, and felt a lump in the wall of the cylinder. Thinking it to be an air bubble, I poked it with my needle tool, but it was a hard chunk. So I dug it out, and there was the long lost nut.

For anyone needing to replace this 50k ohm rotary potentiometer it's a 1/4" diameter long shaft linear taper type for which a Google search finds many sources and different qualities ranging from $0.90 to $20, the former being a generic unsealed type (hence the big gob of silicone RTV in the image in earlier post) and the latter being a precision instrument type.  Certainly more common than the 'slider' type used on later models.
Wheel was a freebie thrown in with some other Craigslist purchases, so if it gives 10 years of incidental use for the price of belts, switch, fuse holder, and paint I'll be more than happy.  Although it's 52 years old, it appears to be a low mileage specimen that took a long barn vacation with rodents.  If the drive train dies it will revert to a banding wheel, the wheel head bearings are very smooth running.

Application closes 3/17/24

The ArtsCenter is seeking a Ceramics Studio Coordinator to lead the day-to-day operations of our new ceramics studio.
This position is 30 hours per week, compensated at $20 per hour. This is a permanent, full time, benefits-eligible position. In addition to payment, this position will receive 24-hour access to the studio, unlimited free reclaim clay, discounted new clay, and access to discounts on classes (approximately a $300/month value).
This position reports directly to and works closely with the Associate Director of ArtSchool.

 
Candidate Requirements
Passion for the ArtsCenter’s mission of inspiring & engaging audiences through the arts. At least 2 years of experience with ceramics; experience in community ceramics studios preferred. High level of knowledge of ceramics methods and practices, including materials, techniques, equipment, artists, and facilities. Expertise in ceramics materials, glazes and glaze mixing, kiln firing/loading, and all other commonly used supplies/equipment found in a pottery studio. Detail-oriented with strong organizational and time management skills. Experience with managing volunteers a plus. Excellent communication skills and high level of emotional intelligence; a collaborative and flexible approach to problem-solving. Some schedule flexibility required. One responsibility of this position is ensuring that open studio hours are covered. This may include coming in unexpectedly to cover open studio hours in the event that a scheduled volunteer is unable to make their shift. This position must supply their own respirator (properly fit-tested and rated for submicron ceramic dust particles), their own sturdy boots, and their own protective clothing. The ArtsCenter will provide chemical-resistant disposable gloves. The ability to stand/sit/walk and lift up to 50 lbs will help this individual succeed in this role. https://app.amilia.com/Jobs/en/theartscenter/JobPosting/kMvBp8b

Here is that explanation about potentiometer resistance:
The pot makes a voltage divider that feeds the analog input. Vout = Vin * R2/(R1+R2)
where R1 is the resistance between Vin and Vout, and R2 is the resistance between Vout and Ground.
If the knob is halfway, then R1 = R2, so the equation simplifies:
Vout = Vin * R1/(R1+R1)
so with 5K:
Vout = 5V * 2500/(2500+2500) = 2.5V. 
and with10K 
Vout = 5V * 5000/(5000+5000) = 2.5V.
 
So the overall value of the pot doesn't really matter.
Where the value does come into play is how power it dissipates.
Power = Current x Voltage, or P=IV.
Current = Voltage/Resistance, so a 5K pot with 5V will have 5V/5000ohm = .001A, 1mA going thru it.
Power = .001A * 5V = 5mW, which is not much, but might be an issue for battery powered operation where long ontime is a concern. In which case a 10K pot might be better.

I have had a fair amount of Requests for older info on Brent wheels-all from the 70s mainly thru PM's and E-mails. I'll cover all the questions I have answered in the past years here.
This is my original Brochure from 1969-1970-I bought a model C then from Robert Brent himself. At that time the model C and CXC where the only two models he made. The CXC was a direct drive transmission and could spin a 3/4 ton truck . The model C had two separate belts. Both had flat heavy duty decks with flat formica on top. The foot pedals where like in photos not like todays models. 
You can replace the potentiometer  by following that link at top of Equipment page on Brandon's post.
The splash Pans  where galvanized sheet metal and just slid in under the wheel head with no attachment .You can make one from say a plastic bowl like container. I like to find them at Asian Markets as they have the best selections
The CXC has a 1/2 steel thick deck and weight 160#s -yes 1/2 plate steel. The Model C was 1/4 inch thick deck and weighed 120#s. I still have my model C and its heavy.
The transmission takes 90 weight oil in that CXC. 
The control boxes where metal electrical boxes and were to small for all the contents and can be replaced with deeper boxes if you are working on one.
Any rust can be neutralized using Ospho bought online or any Ace Hardware store and let set for 24 hours then spray with flat black paint after 1st wire brushing away the loose material.
If your motor is blue (its original) the brushes are not user changeable -just take it to an electric motor shop and have them change out any neaded bearings or brushes at the same time.
If you have a bearing out on the wheeled (its all one unit) you can unbolt it from deck and replace with new Brent wheelhead but the shaft size on the model C was 5/8 and the new shaft/wheelheads are 3/4 so you will need new 3/4 inch shaft belt pulley as well
In Brent wheelheads the bearing and shaft/wheelhead are one piece so you need the whole deal.. The good news is they can last a lifetime unless you are a production potter.
All newer Brent motors have user friendly replacement brushes (non Blue motors).
Hope this helps those who buy these older Brent wheels
The wiring brochure is from the old days-the last document is the spring tension on wheels from the  late 70s onward written by an old acquaintance from Amaco/ Brent  Paul Scowden

I'm searching for the same. Here's what I found: https://youtu.be/Ni0pYd_V-DQ Adding reverse switch to a Brent wheel : Pottery (reddit.com) How to reverse a Brent Model B Wheel - Equipment Use and Repair - Ceramic Arts Daily Community Forward/Reverse Control Circuits – Basic Motor Control (opentextbc.ca) r/c forward/reverse switch - RC Groups Depending on where you live, I'd check on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for a wheel that has a forward/reverse toggle.    I'm not comfortable with wiring an electrical motor, so I would ask around for help installing a switch. Preferably a switch with forward, neutral, reverse, since a simple toggle (forward/reverse) switch can blow the motor.

Not sure if this helps but at some point I got a Brent schematic from someone here which clearly shows .7 m  double shafted pot for the pedal and a mysterious trim pot  going into a voltage divider. Definitely not your pot but .7 M  the value is interesting if they stuck with the diac control.