Potpotpotter
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Posts posted by Potpotpotter
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2 hours ago, Hulk said:
...the host advised bisque firing to cone 08 to avoid pinholes and blisters."
Interesting!
I'm curious why, as I'd thought bisque firing higher, with extended hold(s) at lower temperature(s), and with continuous atmosphere exchange* was standard advice for burning off "...products of decomposition..."Bisque (digitalfire.com)
"Bisquit should be fired as high as possible."
*via powered kiln vent, else convective scheme...
The reason was that the high porosity leads to glaze sticking well without much (invisible) air bubbles. I’m doing a bad job explaining it, if you can listen to the podcast, it made sense technically but I have never heard of it before.
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On 3/11/2024 at 10:01 PM, Bill Kielb said:
Yuck, what a pain! Good to know. @Potpotpotter pretty easy to build a schedule, the last 200-250 f is most important to get the right speed to bend cones predictably. If you are unsure tell us, this is easily solved.
I was able to add a schedule right from scratch without copying but ended up copying the cone 6 and adding few holds while cooling.
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Thank you everyone! I copied my cone 6 program and added a 5 min hold at cone 6,
2230-2100 9999f/hr hold again for 15 mins
2100-1900 108f/hr hold again here for 5 mins and natural cooling after that.
This worked pretty well as I just found 1 odd pinhole on the outside of 1 mug.
I recently heard For Flux Sake and the host advised bisque firing to cone 08 to avoid pinholes and blisters. I have never heard of this before and always thought that 04-06 was a pretty standard temperature for bisque firings. -
3 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:
As min mentioned above, but since you have a touch screen you could program a cone 5 auto fire, add a 15 min hold at the end to get to cone 6 heat work, then add your 100 degree drop (from cone 5 peak) and hold as something to start, tweak from there depending on results. This way the autofire can do most of the schedule firing for you.
Thanks! I will try this. So the last segment will be for drop right? Sorry if I’m asking silly questions because I have not programmed it before.
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On 1/6/2024 at 9:06 PM, Kelly in AK said:
That is strange, because it’s the clay body that’s usually the determining factor if a pot leaks. I say usually because it’s possible with a perfectly fitting glaze to have a porous body that doesn’t leak (for a while, anyway). Are you sure you’re getting to cone 6? Some bodies show a significant difference between c5 and c6.
As @Min says, the sure way to rule out the clay is to test it for absorption.
I used the cones and they bent as per the temperatures. But I am going to run few tests and also maybe aad a new program because I am also having issues with pinholes lately. Thank you!
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On 1/6/2024 at 7:54 PM, Min said:
Claybodies should be vitrified enough to not weep / leak even with no glaze on them when used for functional work and fired to mid or highfire.
Is this the clay you used? https://tuckers-pottery-supplies-inc.shoplightspeed.com/mid-smooth-stone-speck-clay-cone-6-stoneware-ecom.html
If that is the clay then in theory the clay should be vitrified enough to not leak with a posted absorption figure of 1.0 % but published figures can vary by +/- 1%. I would suggest running your own absorption tests. This is a good idea to to when using a new clay or every once in a while on an existing clay as materials can change.
How to on testing for absorption here if you need it, about 2/3 the way down the page, I would suggest doing the weight calculation test with several samples placed in different areas of the kiln.
Thank you for your reply. Yes that’s the clay I am using. I will definitely run my own tests for this one.
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Hello everyone,
I have a skutt kiln with touch screen controller and I want to know how to add a hold and soak program in it for cone 6 to avoid pinholes and blisters. Does anybody have a program that worked from them that they can share please?
Thanks!
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Hello! I was wondering if anyone ever had any problems with Mayco Alabaster. I have noticed that whenever I have used it on my functional wear like mugs, they seep in the water test. I usually test my mugs by keeping a tissue underneath a cup filled with water. Rest of the mugs from the same batch, same clay, but different glaze were fine. But this one made the tissue moist underneath. Same happened with a small plate. I have attached a picture of that mug.
the clay I used is Tuckers Speckled white Stoneware cone 6.
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Oh wow I never knew something like this existed! Thank you
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Hello everyone!
I use luster on some of my mugs on the outside only but I believe I put some on inside by accident and it went unnoticed
Is there a way to get this out?
Thanks!
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On 11/16/2023 at 9:42 AM, Hulk said:
More reading:
Very paranoid about Silicosis - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
Silica Dust Exposure - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
Can air purifiers remove silica dust from my Ceramic Studio - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community|
Dust Collection For Small Studio - Clay and Glaze Chemistry - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
Toxicity (digitalfire.com)Dedicated Studio shoes/sandals, no tracking clay into the house!
For if/when clay gets on clothes, have a few clean sets handy in the Studio.
Change rags when there's any dry clay on thar, bag or drown in water, along with dusty clothing! ...else, wet that rag.
Wipe down clay smear/bits inside the clay bags with a big ol' sponge, then spray a mist of water in thar before closing up the bag.
Dry clay on plastic sheeting/bags -> instant dust!
Handle the dried out empty clay bags outside, away from the Studio (clean inside and out, save for reclaim!).Some forum regulars are using air filtration systems, also centralized vacuums (where the exhaust is routed outside/away).
My overhead kiln vent doubles as a glaze mixing station fan.
I'm handling the glaze material outside, away from the Studio door - repacking from the sacks and bags into lidded containers - then hosing the area down later.
Find a P100 (or equivalent) dust mask/respirator that fits you well and wear it when doing dust things.
Check/clean surfaces regularly. Note where dust accumulates, and how much - that's why I believe wedging and trimming are what generates dust in my Studio.
How else can one assess the dusty-ness of the working space?
Heh, I've posed this question several times over the last five years or so...All these points are so good! Thank you for taking the time and sharing it with us all.
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Hello! A complete newbie to this community. I have a home basement studio and I wanted to know how others with a home/ basement studio manage dust? I do wear a mask whenever I clean and do wet sponging but I always keep coughing. I also have 3 cats that are always around me since their food and little is in the basement too. I sometimes wonder if they would have issues with silica with constant exposure.
My basement is finished but has a tiny window which not really accessible. Plus I live in Canada so half of the year our windows are closed.
people in similar situation like mine, how do you operate?
Thank!
Drop and Soak program for Cone 6 in Skutt
in Clay and Glaze Chemistry
Posted
It lets you copy, you need to go till the last screen to get into temperatures to get that option.