Bill Kielb
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Status Replies posted by Bill Kielb
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Hi Bill, I'm new to the forum so am not sure I'm using everything correctly - like this message. I saw a post you participated in dated around 2019. It was about venting a gas kiln around 280,000 BTUs, the size b vent required, length of pipe, etc. The post mentioned that there were links at the bottom to some of the technical data. Those links don't seem to work for me, and I'm wondering if you could re post them?
I'm panning to install a propane kiln, about 240,000 BTUs (similar to an Olympic 2327 style kiln.) I'm in Rochester, NY so I'm planning to build a shed around the kiln to protect it from rain and snow, about 5'X5' on a cement pad. The shed will enclose the kiln and have a large door on one side (about 3'X6') for ventilation. The roof will be metal with a simple angle (not an inverted "Vee" style). The kiln will be a top loader with a vent hood high enough above the kiln so I can open the top and not bump my head every time.
Are there any other posts on the site about planning this type of installation? The original post I saw is below. Thanks in advance.
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Hi John, just have not had a chance to get to this. Outdoor installation in a shed I would add a simple natural ventilation hood. Ideally the hood should be a bit larger than the kiln and mounted above it a sufficient height so if you do reduction flames will not impinge on the hood Usually 18” - 20” centered on the flame. You can Google Bvent design and pick Hart & Cooley Orr metal fab or Selkirk or your local Bvent material supplier.
Enter the table and search the “Nat” column it’s a shed so I would try and limit to 6–8 feet. Pick a height and find a diameter that covers your load. So 6” @ 6’ 205000 btuh. 7” @ 6’ 285000 btuh. Be as accurate as practical with your size as too big is not better. Also keep in mind you likely will not operate the kiln at absolute maximum pressure to fire. So size to max, much more has more downside than upside. I would suggest terminate with a manufactured rain cap - just buy one that fits the duct
Waterproofing is generally a tall cone solution or in that post there were some silicone flashings for stepped roof profiles. If you hang it by chains, you will probably need a decent interior lateral support …….. or roof guys if you don’t mind the aesthetics.
For a slanted roof if metal I might be inclined to go with the silicone flashing and turn it point up so no water dam behind it.
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We closed today!
We have keys and remotes; tomorrow we'll start moving things from storage.
The garage space has one big "two car" door and a one car door.
The one car space will become ...Studio!
My plans include putting up a wall to close off the one car space, with a person door near the back - door with a big window in it, to catch some of the light from that North facing window.
We'll run wiring in the new wall, separate the overhead lighting from the rest of the garage, and add several flat mount LED lights up there.
The heat pump thing will go on that far wall somewhere, the kiln in the corner by the rollup door.It's a nice space. The window isn't as big as the prior Studio's, but it will bring it a lot of light, being Westerly.
The space is a bit bigger.
The roll about shelving we negotiated for from the sellers.
I'll very likely use a few of them on the Studio side; they are adjustable and very stout. -
We came across a brand new Skutt KS 1027 3 phase. My husband is converting it to single phase. It will be used in basement but I do not want to leave doors open when firing.
My question, since I have an electrical savvy husband. Can he DIY a venting system from standard vent materials? Has anyone done this? He thinks he has most the materials needed but doesn't know about the size hole etc.
We have a pipe vent going outside the house now, in basement. (old down draft stove vent before remodel) He planned to use it. He also pulled a great exhaust fan from a remodel job he finished. He planned to install exhaust fan overhead of kiln to assist w/fumes/heat. Cement block walls around kiln.
He could probably figure it out but I thought I would ask if someone has done this before.
TIA-
Yes, many have done it. The secret (if there is any) is they really only withdraw a very tiny amount of kiln air (which is all that is needed) which is mixed mostly with room air so the fan and piping can never overheat. The hole drilled into the kiln is on the order of one or two 1/4” holes, so fairly small and can be plugged up easily with ordinary kiln patch if you ever have a reason.
Here is an old video of me doing it and comparing the result with a manufactured system. https://youtu.be/etpa2Pc9Hug. Please note we added a vent above the kiln just to eliminate wax smell which downdrafts don’t capture. This allowed us to use a fan that cools itself. If you use a similar fan, or really any fan for that matter, you will need to make sure it has enough room air to keep itself cool. No more than approx. 110 degrees
My guess - he will find it easy.
If you desire to remove the heat produced by the kiln as well, he will need to design on the order of 400-600 cfm with a hood above to remove most of it. At that point you will likely need to ensure you have sufficient makeup air from outdoors as well.
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Bill I would like to know your plans or have you make a gas kiln recorder like the one you mentioned on You Tube with the gas firing schedule. Is there any way to do that?
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I have made several and depending upon the familiarity of the end user have created several for studios that plan to teach or schools. Our policy has been to provide assistance in the build and the software already written with minor customization as long as it advances the ceramic arts. In other words, no charge license for single use forever, open architecture so the end user can learn to modify on their own if they wish.
How comfortable are you with the build part?
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I passed on the info you gave to me. It looks like it might be too big for the maintenance guy to handle. I think its GOOD BYE to the whisper wheel. Now its down to 3 wheels for 6 people. The hand builders group are getting bigger in numbers. I certainly do appreciate the help you gave. Good health & good luck to you!
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You can just order a new board. With a little plugging and unplugging I think they can have a decent wheel. Maybe 300 - 400 bucks I believe if he goes on their website they have some generic troubleshooting tips using the On board LED lights which usually leads to replacing the board. Just plug and play stuff from there.
Just looked, here is the link to the troubleshooting manual
Best of luck!
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Hi Donna!
May I suggest you post your question to the "Studio Operations and Making Work" forum?
http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/forum/22-studio-operations-and-making-work/
A couple thoughts
Did you have cones at same level as the thermocouple? Expect there to be warmer and cooler places...
Do you have an idea how fast the temp was rising the last hour or so? Note that the cones bend at lower temps when it's taking longer to get hotter - shoot for 2237F for cone 5.5 when the rate is 270F/hour
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The v6CF defaults to about 120 degrees per hour in the last 250 degrees of firing in cone fire mode. so their built in cone table will say 2232 I believe. I just replied with a post detailing some simple questions and we can send her the basic V6Cf technical setup. It’s pretty easy and since she is close likely will help correct the situation.
she will need to get familiar with fast glaze, slow glaze, etc..... as well
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