SmartsyArtsy

Thanks for replies. I will investigate your suggestions

I want to print a logo and am concerned about getting the best black from the decal. I have seen many results that show as iron color. Is it possible to get a black image?

I would try any of the methods just so the fit works then use a drop of glaze to adhere in final firing.

I agree, that decals should be applied then fired to ^04. their color will most likely burn out in cone 6.

Lessons learned! I had forgotten what the thermocouple first looked like; now I know!

The firing problem was a thermocouple that I needed to replace. For the benefit for anyone else here who has never replaced one, it was a bit more confusing. After the first error msg with dark clay, "Error 1": low voltage or bad elements, I fired a white stoneware bisque load and had no problems. Then I fired a white stoneware light glaze load and had no problems. The third firing after the "Error 1" was another large dark clay planter. That resulted in "FAIL" and another bloated pot. When I went to purchase a new thermocouple, I asked about the bloating dark clay. I was told to fire only to ^5 -- even though it says ^4-^6

The Ceramic Spectrum is my most "gone to" book in the library.

In the PNW, I use and really like Newcomb ^6 for the same kind of work. I am not sure if you can get something similar.

This happens to me with tin oxide, so after measuring out, I soak the tin in warm water for a couple days while the rest of the recipe is slaking. Then I get as much through the sieve as possible. My recipe seems good, so I assume I have extracted enough.

I only hand build now but lately I have been keeping an eye out for an affordable wheel. Just got an extruder but haven't hung it yet. I look forward to experimenting with extruded forms.

I created my own Hypercard system (like HyperGlaze) years ago and used that. Now I use a FileMaker system that I wrote. It is a relational data base of recipes, batches, materials, inventory, expenditures, sales. I can search by recipe, dates, materials, and a myriad of other fields. I photograph my test tiles and imbed the pics in the recipe file. If I want to know what recipes I have mixed in the past 2 years that use Wollastonite, I can. My inventory info extracts data from the expenditure file and depletes amounts according to the recipe batches. There are low limits on materials so a "shopping list" is automatically created. The only tedious part is entering the expenditures; even though this is mostly via categories, the purchased materials must be entered one by one.

I have one of those too! Very handy. I take the entire cabinet with me when I teach offsite.

Well, I must say that HD and the fabric store had the most unhelpful and unimaginable employees!!! UGH! In HD I looked at Formica (possible at some other time), coated MDF, which I think you use with the linseed oil, Neil ($9 a sheet; color is the issue with me), sheet vinyl (a very possible for me @ $12.50 for a 3x7 sheet). The coated MDF is only available in their larger store so I will be up that way in a week. I was disappointed at the vinyl options in the fabric store. It appeared all the marine vinyl was coated with poly, and the rest seemed too thin. I am not, though, satisfied that I saw every possible option. Those fabrics were costly anyhow.

Just found this very good discussion http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/412-alternatives-to-canvas-work-surfaces/?hl=covering&do=findComment&comment=2407 I am off to look at several options at HD and a local industrial fabric shop. Lots of good possibilities in the above linked to thread. I have several doors as table tops and am not sure how I feel about working on wood because of the dark color. I have also worked on Formica and liked that. Just need to keep the dust down as well as I can

I am moving away from canvas an choosing textured plastic or vinyl